Avon Gorge (North Butress)

Climbs 12 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 25m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
(Temporary)

Extensive quarried(?) limestone butress, recently under restoration. The routes mooted here are obtained from the 2004 Climbers Club Guide - MJ Crocker et al, and not the 1992 guide as stated.

The butress has just been freed of substatial overgrowth which has been present for at least 5 years, but probably more. As a result, many of the climbs listed here could have changed beyond recognition and may justify re-naming and grading.

Access notes
Access is possible from upper left or bottom right of the butress (climbers orientation).

Upper access: Take the path to the right of the suspension bridge (facing toward toll gate at top of crag)then over the fence (permission unsure) and down slope to desired climb.

Lower access: As for Supension Bridge butress and Amphitheatre (N side of road cover) follow wide gully up, on right hand side for 10metres to reach the start of the climbs.

Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010), Avon and Cheddar (2004), Avon and Cheddar (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Carlos J GHVS 5b
2Builders of the New AgeE3 6a
3The Rejected CapstoneE5 6b/c
4StrappadosHVS 4c
5HideawayM
6Jose DansackVS 4c
7The DrainS 4a
8Green-unS 4a
9Purple HazeHVS 4c
10Don QuixoteHVS 4c
11Welcome to the North ButressXS
12Rubble *HD 6a ***
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Quarryboy

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
I noticed a lot of workmen clearing the steep slope above this buttress this week - ripping out bushes, trees etc. Not sure why, or what the plan is. I reckon finding anchors at the top of routes could be a major concern at this crag...
Phil Murray - 19/Jul/12
Scrambled up there today to have a look. If I had the time, I would definitely restore/add routes here. Potential for an ace traverse right around to SSB. Calling out to people like Mark D. Saw two wires with quick draws at the top of one of the routes. Can only assume they were used as an escape lower off. Exciting to see a part of Avon I never new about!
Stanners - 27/Nov/11
See here for inspiration! http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=338592
heallan - 27/Jan/09
Vegitation has been there for well over 13 years! Went yesterday -looks as though there is a lot of cleaning to be done before it becomes worth while...
beardy mike - 26/Jan/09
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 03/Dec/2011

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