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These details were last updated on 03/Dec/2011

Avon Gorge (North Butress)


Climbs 12 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 25m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features

Extensive quarried(?) limestone butress, recently under restoration. The routes mooted here are obtained from the 2004 Climbers Club Guide - MJ Crocker et al, and not the 1992 guide as stated.

The butress has just been freed of substatial overgrowth which has been present for at least 5 years, but probably more. As a result, many of the climbs listed here could have changed beyond recognition and may justify re-naming and grading.

Access notes
Access is possible from upper left or bottom right of the butress (climbers orientation).

Upper access: Take the path to the right of the suspension bridge (facing toward toll gate at top of crag)then over the fence (permission unsure) and down slope to desired climb.

Lower access: As for Supension Bridge butress and Amphitheatre (N side of road cover) follow wide gully up, on right hand side for 10metres to reach the start of the climbs.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

8.5mm rain
Mainly cloudy
20 °C
10 kph

1.0mm rain
19 °C
14 kph

0.0mm rain
14 °C
17 kph

0.0mm rain
15 °C
7 kph

0.3mm rain
15 °C
11 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

West Country Climbs (2010), Avon and Cheddar (2004), Avon and Cheddar (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Carlos J GHVS 5b  
2Builders of the New AgeE3 6a  
3The Rejected CapstoneE5 6b/c  
4StrappadosHVS 4c  
5HideawayM 1
6Jose DansackVS 4c 1
 Climb nameGradex
7The DrainS 4a 1
8Green-unS 4a 1
9Purple HazeHVS 4c 1
10Don QuixoteHVS 4c  
11Welcome to the North ButressXS 2
12Rubble *HD 6a ***1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
I noticed a lot of workmen clearing the steep slope above this buttress this week - ripping out bushes, trees etc. Not sure why, or what the plan is. I reckon finding anchors at the top of routes could be a major concern at this crag...
Phil Murray - 19/Jul/12

Scrambled up there today to have a look. If I had the time, I would definitely restore/add routes here. Potential for an ace traverse right around to SSB. Calling out to people like Mark D. Saw two wires with quick draws at the top of one of the routes. Can only assume they were used as an escape lower off. Exciting to see a part of Avon I never new about!
Stanners - 27/Nov/11

See here for inspiration!
heallan - 27/Jan/09

Vegitation has been there for well over 13 years! Went yesterday -looks as though there is a lot of cleaning to be done before it becomes worth while...
mike kann - 26/Jan/09