Avon Gorge (North Butress)

Climbs 12 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 25m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features

Extensive quarried(?) limestone butress, recently under restoration. The routes mooted here are obtained from the 2004 Climbers Club Guide - MJ Crocker et al, and not the 1992 guide as stated.

The butress has just been freed of substatial overgrowth which has been present for at least 5 years, but probably more. As a result, many of the climbs listed here could have changed beyond recognition and may justify re-naming and grading.

Approach notes
Access is possible from upper left or bottom right of the butress (climbers orientation).

Upper access: Take the path to the right of the suspension bridge (facing toward toll gate at top of crag)then over the fence (permission unsure) and down slope to desired climb.

Lower access: As for Supension Bridge butress and Amphitheatre (N side of road cover) follow wide gully up, on right hand side for 10metres to reach the start of the climbs.

West Country Climbs (2010), Avon and Cheddar (2004), Avon and Cheddar (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Carlos J GHVS 5b 5
2Builders of the New AgeE3 6a 4
3The Rejected CapstoneE5 6b/c  
4StrappadosE1 5a *12
5HideawayM 5
6Jose DansackHVS 4c *18
7The DrainVS 4b *11
8Green-unS 4a 1
9Purple HazeHVS 4c 1
10Don QuixoteHVS 4c  
11Welcome to the North ButressXS 2
12Rubble *HD 6a ***1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stanners

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Was really impressed with the quality of the routes and the rock up there. Everyone who was involved in the clean up has done a great job. The routes deserve more stars than they currently have; a few extra might encourage more traffic up there, which is needed if it isn't going to turn back to jungle. Also, if North Buttress is going to have its own logbook, then then duplicated climbs need removing from the SBB logbook.
Alex Winter - 10/Jul/15
My new favourite place to climb at avon. Psyched to try and get all these ticked off. Taken over moderation today and hoping to climb, confirm and update each route.
Stanners - 19/Mar/15
I noticed a lot of workmen clearing the steep slope above this buttress this week - ripping out bushes, trees etc. Not sure why, or what the plan is. I reckon finding anchors at the top of routes could be a major concern at this crag...
Phil Murray - 19/Jul/12
Scrambled up there today to have a look. If I had the time, I would definitely restore/add routes here. Potential for an ace traverse right around to SSB. Calling out to people like Mark D. Saw two wires with quick draws at the top of one of the routes. Can only assume they were used as an escape lower off. Exciting to see a part of Avon I never new about!
Stanners - 27/Nov/11
See here for inspiration! http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=338592
heallan - 27/Jan/09
Vegitation has been there for well over 13 years! Went yesterday -looks as though there is a lot of cleaning to be done before it becomes worth while...
beardy mike - 26/Jan/09