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These details were last updated on 31/Jul/2009

Smalldale Quarry

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 50 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
An open quarry with an impressive 20m+ central wall and smaller, lower quality walls either side. The main wall offers excellent mileage at f7a and above on generally sound, well bolted rock (but be careful with those large flakes and overhangs!). Pick of the bunch are Lost Contact, Can Boys (both f7a) and Virtual Insanity (F7b).

Access notes
Approaching from Peak Forest park on the track leading to the brickworks at the left-hand end of the quarry. Follow the grassy track alongside the fence of the brickworks to a smaller barbed wire fence at the corner of a 'lorry park'. Nip over this and head off diagonally (avoiding the large chained dogs) to the easily visible quarry (2 mins).

Or- Drive into lorry park. Have a friendly chat with the owner. He will show you where to park, chain the wolves up and wish you a happy day's climbing - top bloke!

[06May07] Take care if parking in the lorry park and leaving late. Following the above advice I parked there but no-one around to talk to. Leaving at about 10pm found I was locked in - fortunately the owner came along at just the right time and let me out. Apparently they have had problems with people stealing things off the lorries at night forcing them to close the gates. Best to make sure the owner knows you have parked there!

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

3.9mm rain
Cloudy
19 °C
18 kph

17.8mm rain
Cloudy
16 °C
13 kph

2.3mm rain
Sun
17 °C
10 kph

2.2mm rain
Mainly cloudy
19 °C
8 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
20 °C
8 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), From Horseshoe to Harpur Hill (2004), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Peak Limestone - Wye Valley (1999), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1The Ladybird Killers6c+ 1
2Six Bee or Not Six Be6c+ 1
3Terry and June6c 2
4Squawkietawkie7a 4
5Obelix7a+ 1
6Getafix7b *3
7Reservoir Frogs6c *39
8First Offence6c+ *27
9When Reason Sleeps7a+ *9
10Stainsby Girls7a+ *11
11Virtual Insanity7a+ **38
12Soft Centre7a+ *16
13Lies and Deception7a *25
14Lost Contact7a+ **49
15Soggy Biscuits7b+ **21
16Can Boys7a **62
17Can Can Girls Can't6c+ *7
18Little LadyE3 5c 2
19Bedlam6c+ 17
20Fringe Benefit6a 3
21Owd Biddy Flogger6a 7
22The Crystal Maze6c+ *12
23Hollow Inside6b+ *9
24The Quartz Tricycle6b+ *10
25Friezian6b *9
 Climb nameGradex
26Lady Luck6a+ *37
27Just Passing Through6a *56
28Sock it to 'em5a *81
29Stone the Crows6b *9
30Learn the Lingo6c *14
31Mr Love Pants6b+ **50
32Shanacie6b **80
33Riding the Bullet6c **53
34More Chattery Teeth6b *48
35Open Season6b *61
36Upminster Kid6b *28
37Going Straight6c **57
38Friend 156a+ 54
39Shame on You6b *45
40Single Decker6a+ *19
41Triple Sec6b 4
42Double Wammy6b 4
43Summat Outanowt *7a 5
44Noisy Neighbours *2 2
45Awesome foursome *6b+ 2
46Too Fat to Tag *E1 5b 2
47Single Malt *E2 5b * 
48Fringe Benefit *6a 1
49Play it again Sam *HVS 5a 2
50Floggin' A Dead Horse *6b *5
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
This is a really good crag. The rock quality as good as anywhere on Peak limestone and because, for some reason, its not that popular the rock isn't the slightest bit polished. It was surprising to visit on a dry weekend in May and find only one party on the crag. Even more surprising was that none of the routes on Main Wall, the best bit, had any chalk on them. This suggests they hadn't been done this year. Most of the routes were regeared a couple of years ago I believe so no problems with the gear that I've found. It's also only 5 minutes walk from the car. Only downsides are possibly a bit midgy in the evenings (but I guess many crags in the Peak can be like that.) Midweek I think the noise from the quarry can be a little intrusive. Other than that its well worth a visit or three.
stp - 13/May/14

Was there on Saturday. Agree about the spaced bolts. Most are 3-4m apart and some considerably more than that. However the rock appeared sound where we were climbing (although it didn't look it).
John_Hat - 25/Jul/10

I wouldn't say that the routes on Going Straight Wall were "well bolted". It all depends on your definition of "well bolted" is - the bolts are in good condition or close together. The former is true but there are some spaced bolts in places.
Neil Binns - 13/Jun/05

Careful with the loose rock - almost every route I've done here has a few disposable features. My partner pulled a half-metre-long block off 'Open Season', which clattered him on the way down. Fortunately only minor injuries! Helmets and standing well back are advisable!
Carl Smethurst - 23/Aug/04