Smalldale Quarry Derbyshire, ENGLAND
Climbs 50 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces NW
An open quarry with an impressive 20m+ central wall and smaller, lower quality walls either side. The main wall offers excellent mileage at f7a and above on generally sound, well bolted rock (but be careful with those large flakes and overhangs!). Pick of the bunch are Lost Contact, Can Boys (both f7a) and Virtual Insanity (F7b).
Approaching from Peak Forest park on the track leading to the brickworks at the left-hand end of the quarry. Follow the grassy track alongside the fence of the brickworks to a smaller barbed wire fence at the corner of a 'lorry park'. Nip over this and head off diagonally (avoiding the large chained dogs) to the easily visible quarry (2 mins).
Or- Drive into lorry park. Have a friendly chat with the owner. He will show you where to park, chain the wolves up and wish you a happy day's climbing - top bloke!
[06May07] Take care if parking in the lorry park and leaving late. Following the above advice I parked there but no-one around to talk to. Leaving at about 10pm found I was locked in - fortunately the owner came along at just the right time and let me out. Apparently they have had problems with people stealing things off the lorries at night forcing them to close the gates. Best to make sure the owner knows you have parked there!
Peak Limestone (2012), From Horseshoe to Harpur Hill (2004), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Peak Limestone - Wye Valley (1999), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004)
Climbs at this crag
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This is a really good crag. The rock quality as good as anywhere on Peak limestone and because, for some reason, its not that popular the rock isn't the slightest bit polished.
It was surprising to visit on a dry weekend in May and find only one party on the crag. Even more surprising was that none of the routes on Main Wall, the best bit, had any chalk on them. This suggests they hadn't been done this year.
Most of the routes were regeared a couple of years ago I believe so no problems with the gear that I've found. It's also only 5 minutes walk from the car. Only downsides are possibly a bit midgy in the evenings (but I guess many crags in the Peak can be like that.) Midweek I think the noise from the quarry can be a little intrusive. Other than that its well worth a visit or three.|
stp - 13/May/14
Was there on Saturday. Agree about the spaced bolts. Most are 3-4m apart and some considerably more than that. However the rock appeared sound where we were climbing (although it didn't look it).
John_Hat - 25/Jul/10
I wouldn't say that the routes on Going Straight Wall were "well bolted". It all depends on your definition of "well bolted" is - the bolts are in good condition or close together. The former is true but there are some spaced bolts in places.
Neil Binns - 13/Jun/05
Careful with the loose rock - almost every route I've done here has a few disposable features. My partner pulled a half-metre-long block off 'Open Season', which clattered him on the way down. Fortunately only minor injuries! Helmets and standing well back are advisable!
Carl Smethurst - 23/Aug/04