An esoteric bouldering venue, which is nevertheless quite decent by South Wales' standards. It is quite sheltered and often stays dry during rain, however the quarried face is particularly prone to seepage. It is for this reason that a number of obvious lines are yet to be climbed. There is plenty of opportunity for new problems to be sent but you better bring a trowel and machete for the more obscure ones. A fun crag, ideal for a evenings boulder. Similar in nature to to Clogfaen Gigfran.
A topo guide is available at:
Some video footage of the area has also been shot, this can be viewed at: http://vimeo.com/3273334
NOTE: The Little Gap was previously discovered by Dave Wakley and Chas Ryder back in 2001 under the name 175. Consequently there may be some overlap between old and new problems. Hopefully this will be fixed soon!
The best approach is to walk north from Abercynon, aiming for Incline Top, (the hill with power cables on it) walk round the hill until you pass a farm opposite a pylon. Walk for about a minute further on, past the corrugated sheet entrance on your left, until a series of boulders can be seen up the hill amongst the trees. Scramble through the bracken and the main section of the crag will be on the far left. Alternatively, take the same route as you would for the Gap but instead of turning right once past the A470 overpass, turn left. The crag will be on your right. Parking will be an issue.
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