Climbs 20
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 149m a.s.l
Faces E

Little Gap Quarry © devo

Crag features

An esoteric bouldering venue, which is nevertheless quite decent by South Wales' standards. It is quite sheltered and often stays dry during rain, however the quarried face is particularly prone to seepage. It is for this reason that a number of obvious lines are yet to be climbed. There is plenty of opportunity for new problems to be sent but you better bring a trowel and machete for the more obscure ones. A fun crag, ideal for a evenings boulder. Similar in nature to to Clogfaen Gigfran.

A topo guide is available at:

Some video footage of the area has also been shot, this can be viewed at:

NOTE: The Little Gap was previously discovered by Dave Wakley and Chas Ryder back in 2001 under the name 175. Consequently there may be some overlap between old and new problems. Hopefully this will be fixed soon!

Approach notes

The best approach is to walk north from Abercynon, aiming for Incline Top, (the hill with power cables on it) walk round the hill until you pass a farm opposite a pylon. Walk for about a minute further on, past the corrugated sheet entrance on your left, until a series of boulders can be seen up the hill amongst the trees. Scramble through the bracken and the main section of the crag will be on the far left. Alternatively, take the same route as you would for the Gap but instead of turning right once past the A470 overpass, turn left. The crag will be on your right. Parking will be an issue.


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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Pikey Presidentf4  
2Kleptocracyf5+ *2
3Imperfect Godf6A **1
4Arrivaf5+ *2
5Lonerf6B **1
6Jamfootedf4 1
7Tastes like Victorinof4 2
8Failed Statef4+ 1
9Moist Marxismf4+ 1
10Thorny Autonomyf5 1
11Plunder Economyf6A **1
12Colonial Rulef4 1
13Rise Againstf5 1
14Great-8f4 1

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