UKC

Contributed by andrewmc Jul/16 - This public ticklist has been seen 7,017 times

There are many classic routes around the country which provide enjoyment and fun to many. There are many classic ticklists listing these routes. Those who travel the country ticking away happily will have much merriment and laughter as they collect star after star.

I propose a different sort of ticklist... one for the dark deviants among us who prefer a bit of suffering. There should a moment of reflection at the bottom of each route ('oh god, why are we even here'). The route itself should pass as a slow, possibly never-ending horror. It is not enough that the climbing is unpleasant, or difficult, but there should be additional factors - a lengthy walk in, diving into and out of the bowels of the Earth, wetness and general disgustingness, the possibiility of being attacked by the native wildlife etc...

It should also take ideally many hours to complete; easy escape should not be an option, as you slowly contemplate all your bad choices that have led you to this place. The climbing itself should be of a fairly low grade, although being a massive sandbag is all part of the fun.

Finally, once completed, you should immediately realise that the adventure was fantastic. Extra points are awarded if none of your companions agree (permanent mental scarring is encouraged).

Rules:
UK only!
Generally sub-E1 routes.
No sport routes.

The approach to Great Gully, Craig Cau  © Allen Newby
The approach to Great Gully, Craig Cau
© Allen Newby, Feb 2015

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User Percentage Latest Log
1st JoeCoxson 50% 22 May, 2023
2nd Simon Caldwell 26% 29 Apr, 2011
2nd Keith Swainson 26% 11 Jul, 2020
2nd Chris Pearson 26% 30 Aug, 2001
2nd Lizard Ollie 26% 22 May, 2023
3rd Georgie25 23% 11 Jul, 2020
3rd skinne 23% 19 Nov, 2022
4th DerwentDiluted 19% 13 Oct, 2009
4th Hidden 19% 11 Sep, 2016
4th Binder 19% 21 Apr, 2019

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Distribution of grades

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

The despair felt on Under Milk Wood

Under Milk Wood
The despair felt on Under Milk Wood
© steve-grigg

Preposterous Tales

Preposterous Tales
© Dan Arkle

Cave pitch, Great Gully, Craig yr Ysfa

Great Gully
Cave pitch, Great Gully, Craig yr Ysfa
© Tim Sparrow

Spot the climber, a tad flooded Clachaig Gully

Clachaig Gully (Summer)
Spot the climber, a tad flooded Clachaig Gully
© jimorothy

Classic Chasm. Wet (very) choss with no gear (Red Slab pitch)

The Chasm (Summer)
Classic Chasm. Wet (very) choss with no gear (Red Slab pitch)
© Longdrive97

Coiling the rope after Crypt Route

Crypt Route
Coiling the rope after Crypt Route
© Jonny Tee 69

Deep in Crypt Route.

Crypt Route
Deep in Crypt Route.
© Mike Pescod

Aby sliming her way up to the second belay on Preposterous Tales

Preposterous Tales
Aby sliming her way up to the second belay on Preposterous Tales
© JoeCoxson

Sunrise illuminates Tom topping out the Great Cave pitch.

Great Gully
Sunrise illuminates Tom topping out the Great Cave pitch.
© iainJ

Alex sits atop the outer chockstone on the (fantastic!) Cave Pitch.

Great Gully
Alex sits atop the outer chockstone on the (fantastic!) Cave Pitch.
© BenedictIEP

The infamous Great Cave pitch of Great Gully, Craig yr Ysfa

Great Gully
The infamous Great Cave pitch of Great Gully, Craig yr Ysfa
© Colin Wells

Belay at end of P2

Preposterous Tales
Belay at end of P2
© Dave Foster


Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
WETNESS
Great Gully S *** 236 267m • 11 Craig Yr Ysfa
Great Gully HS - 292m • 9 Cadair Idris -...
Sergeant's Crag Gully (summer) S *** 41 170m • 4 Sergeant Crag
Clachaig Gully (Summer) S *** 180 520m Aonach Eagach -...
The Chasm (Summer) VS *** 239 450m • 16 Buachaille Etive Mor
Raven's Gully (Summer) HVS *** 52 ? Buachaille Etive Mor
TIGHTNESS
Dodger's Chimney D 27 30m • 2 Chair Ladder
Just Fits HVS 4c ** 66 18m Carreg-y-Barcud Area
Monolith Crack HS ** 415 ? Clogwyn y Tarw (The...
The Elephant's Arse S 4b * 389 24m • 2 Holyhead Mountain
Helfenstein's Struggle HVD 4a ** 630 16m Stanage Plantation
Starvation Chimney S 3c ** 48 18m Wimberry Rocks
Crypt Route VD *** 214 ? Bidean nam Bian
DARKNESS
Avernus S 4a *** 659 20m Subluminal and...
Benny A1 *** 157 50m • 3 The Promenade
Labyrinth 5b S3 ** 14 18m Berry Head Quarry
Shelob HS 4b * 153 ? Third Sister to...
Under Milk Wood VS 4a * 299 21m Three Cliffs Bay
Preposterous Tales E2 5b *** 293 50m • 3 Bosherston Head
Inner Space HVS 4c *** 284 45m • 2 Mother Carey's...
The Chasm Face Grade-3 *** 275 ? Glyder Fach
Lockwood's Chimney VD *** 1022 ? • 4 Clogwyn y Bustach
The Inside Route VD 73 ? • 4 Dove Nest Crag,...
LOOSENESS
Mam Tor Gully (Summer) Grade-3 47 70m Mam Tor
High Tor Gully VD 19 ? High Tor
Chocolate Blancmange Gully none 8 40m Horseshoe Quarry
OTHER
2 e, 49 stars 5,840 2,119m 75
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