Kate O'Regan High on Flying Buttress
© Ian Heginbotham, May 2009

'Classic Rock' ticklist

contributed by lithos Aug/10
This public ticklist has been seen 29,214 times

A famous collection of great climbs from the 'Classic Rock' book by Ken Wilson (1978), covering routes from all over the UK originally up to a grade of Hard Severe, although many have been subsequently upgraded to VS. The new 2007 edition added four outright routes in the chapter headings: these are Modern and K2 at Hen Cloud. Arrow Route at Sron na Ciche (a connective line accidentally unlisted in the original as it was always described) and Ivy Chimney as a 'continuation' of Milestone Direct (odd as it's atop pulpit route!) .

Please note that alternative names are occasionally used: Black Slab is Hargreaves Original; Mitre Ridge is by the Cumming-Crofton Route. For added depth of adventure look to the text for exciting possibilities: The Orr finish to Labyrinth, making the route VS, is for example well worth hunting out and the HS start to Terrier's Tooth would be sad for any enthusiast to miss, while Bell's incredible finish to the Cumming-Crofton Route is a real cherry on the icing of that little bun! The 2007 edition has a helpful and inspiring appendix of additional and alternative climbs in every part of the country. These are plentiful and will likewise encourage adventure and alternatives.

Articles about the Ken Wilson books and their 'puerile tickers' can be found on the Needlesport's Website.

Map of all the route locations

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AddClimb nameGradeTicks?HeightCrag name
1Cuillin Ridge TraverseVD ***408?Cuillin Ridge...
2Cioch DirectS 4a *316150m• 5Sron na Ciche
3Arrow RouteVD ***43361m• 2Sron na Ciche
4IntegrityVS 4c ***36376m• 2Sron na Ciche
5Cioch NoseVD ***398200m• 7Sgurr a'Chaorachain
6The Long ClimbVS ***71420m• 11Ben Nevis
7Tower RidgeD ***897600mBen Nevis
8Clachaig Gully (summer)S ***67520mAonach Eagach -...
9Archer RidgeS ***175?• 3Aonach Dubh, East...
10The Long CrackHS **144?Aonach Dubh, East...
11Crypt RouteVD ***55?Bidean nam Bian
12North Face RouteS **210220mBuachaille Etive Mor
13Agag's GrooveVD ***825105m• 4Buachaille Etive Mor
14The ChasmVS ***105450m• 16Buachaille Etive Mor
15SquarefaceVD ***153?Garbh Choire of...
16Cumming-Crofton RouteS ***70?Garbh Choire of...
17Savage SlitS ***36180m• 4Coire an Lochain...
18Clean SweepVS 4c ***142?Hell's Lum
19The Talisman (Summer)HS 4a ***124100mCreag a'choire...
20Eagle Ridge (summer)S ***316250mLochnagar
21Ardverikie WallHS 4b ***555185m• 6Binnein Shuas crag
22Recess RouteS ***192?The Cobbler
23Punster's CrackS ***283?The Cobbler
24Ardgartan AreteVS 4b **5854m• 3The Cobbler
25Sou'wester SlabsVD **280110m• 5Cir Mhor (South...
26LabyrinthVD **52120m• 6Cir Mhor (South...
27Little ChamonixVD ***338970m• 4Shepherds Crag
28Gillercombe ButtressS 3c **596?Gillercombe
29Troutdale PinnacleS ***1680105m• 6Black Crag...
30Bracket and Slab ClimbS ***522?Gimmer Crag
31Ash Tree SlabsVD ***659?Gimmer Crag
32'C' RouteS ***347?Gimmer Crag
33Bowfell ButtressVD ***410110m• 4Bowfell Buttress
34Murray's RouteS 4a ***417?Dow Crag
35Jone's Route Direct from Lord's RakeHS 4a **92?Scafell Crag
36Moss Ghyll GroovesMVS 4c ***24179m• 4Scafell Crag
37Needle RidgeVD **631?The Napes
38The Wasdale CrackHS 4b *487?The Napes
39Tophet WallHS 4a ***45875m• 4The Napes
40New West ClimbVD ***128?Pillar Rock
41Rib and Slab ClimbHS 4b ***106?Pillar Rock
42Great GullyVD **106267m• 11Craig Yr Ysfa
43Gashed CragVD ***499190m• 6Tryfan (East Face)
44Pinnacle Rib RouteD **862164m• 6Tryfan (East Face)
45Grooved ArÍteHVD 4a ***1741230m• 8Tryfan (East Face)
46Direct RouteVD ***156385m• 5Milestone Buttress
47Pulpit RouteD **102287m• 5Milestone Buttress
48Direct RouteHS 4c ***26688m• 7Glyder Fach
49HopeVD ***2113135m• 4Idwal Slabs (aka...
50LazarusS 4a *95043m• 2Idwal Slabs (aka...
51The AreteVD *49524mIdwal Slabs (aka...
52Grey SlabVS 4b **21581m• 2Glyder Fawr crag
53NeaVS 4b **90575m• 4Clogwyn y Grochan
54Crackstone RibS 4a ***166655m• 3Carreg Wastad
55The WrinkleVD **101875m• 3Carreg Wastad
56Flying ButtressVD ***137087mDinas Cromlech
57Spiral StairsD ***60684mDinas Cromlech
58The CracksHS 4c ***100990m• 6Dinas Mot
59Main WallHS 4b ***671140m• 6Cyrn Las
60Avalanche/Red Wall/LonglandsHVD ***271286m• 12Lliwedd
61Creagh Dhu WallHS 4b ***85565m• 2Craig y Castell...
62Will o' the WispHVD **17595m• 6Craig Cywarch (aka...
63Red Pencil DirectHS 4b ***133?Penyghent
64Parson's ChimneyHS 4b ***28917mAlmscliff
65Sail ButtressHS 4b **144614mBirchen Edge
66TopsailVS 4c ***195212mBirchen Edge
67Powder Monkey ParadeS 4b ***124116mBirchen Edge
68Flying ButtressHVD ***372824mStanage Popular
69April CrackHS 4b ***228316mStanage Popular
70Hargreaves' Original RouteVS 4c ***284518mStanage Popular
71Central ClimbVS 4c ***62838m• 3Hen Cloud
72ModernS 4a **29220mHen Cloud
73K2S 4b *44530m• 2Hen Cloud
74Via DolorosaVS 4c ***80232mRoaches Lower Tier
75Black and TansS 4a ***150530m• 2Roaches Upper Tier
76Technical SlabHS 4a **92324mRoaches Upper Tier
77Piton RouteVS 4c ***45458m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
78The Devil's SlideHS 4a ***639117m• 5Lundy
79Demo RouteHS 4b ***161425m• 2Sennen
80Terrier's ToothHS 4b ***74440m• 2Chair Ladder
81Pendulum ChimneyS 4b **334?Chair Ladder
82DoorpostHS 4b ***153155m• 3Bosigran
83Climbers' Club OrdinaryVS 4b **443?• 3The Dewerstone
219 stars59,8657,172m• 257
Users who have completed the full list are:
Nigel Bond, jimorothy