Neil on Little Chamonix
© KiplingGroove1, Sep 2009

Classic Rock ticklist

contributed by lithos Aug/10

A famous collection of great climbs from the 'Classic Rock' book by Ken Wilson (1978), covering routes from all over the UK originally up to a grade of Hard Severe, although many have been subsequently upgraded to VS. The new 2007 edition added four outright routes in the chapter headings: these are Modern and K2 at Hen Cloud. Arrow Route at Sron na Ciche (a connective line accidentally unlisted in the original as it was always described) and Ivy Chimney as a 'continuation' of Milestone Direct (odd as it's atop pulpit route!) .

Please note that alternative names are occasionally used: Black Slab is Hargreaves Original; Mitre Ridge is by the Cumming-Crofton Route. For added depth of adventure look to the text for exciting possibilities: The Orr finish to Labyrinth, making the route VS, is for example well worth hunting out and the HS start to Terrier's Tooth would be sad for any enthusiast to miss, while Bell's incredible finish to the Cumming-Crofton Route is a real cherry on the icing of that little bun! The 2007 edition has a helpful and inspiring appendix of additional and alternative climbs in every part of the country. These are plentiful and will likewise encourage adventure and alternatives.

Articles about the Ken Wilson books and their 'puerile tickers' can be found on the Needlesport's Website.

Map of all the route locations

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
Cuillin Ridge TraverseVD ***464?Cuillin Ridge...
Cioch DirectS 4a *344150m• 5Sron na Ciche
Arrow RouteVD ***47361m• 2Sron na Ciche
IntegrityVS 4c ***38476m• 2Sron na Ciche
Cioch NoseVD ***440200m• 7Sgurr a'Chaorachain
The Long ClimbVS ***288420m• 11Ben Nevis
Tower RidgeD ***1422600mBen Nevis
Clachaig Gully (summer)S ***116520mAonach Eagach -...
Archer RidgeS ***197?• 3Aonach Dubh, East...
The Long CrackHS **168?Aonach Dubh, East...
Crypt RouteVD ***160?Bidean nam Bian
North Face RouteS **232220mBuachaille Etive Mor
Agag's GrooveVD ***947105m• 4Buachaille Etive Mor
The ChasmVS ***276450m• 16Buachaille Etive Mor
SquarefaceVD ***170?Garbh Choire of...
Cumming-Crofton RouteS ***79?Garbh Choire of...
Savage SlitS ***53380m• 4Coire an Lochain...
Clean SweepVS 4c ***278?Hell's Lum
The Talisman (Summer)HS 4a ***139100mCreag a'choire...
Eagle Ridge (summer)S ***369250mLochnagar
Ardverikie WallHS 4b ***609185m• 6Binnein Shuas crag
Recess RouteS ***225?The Cobbler
Punster's CrackS ***333?The Cobbler
Ardgartan AreteVS 4b **6554m• 3The Cobbler
Sou'wester SlabsVD **400110m• 5Cir Mhor (South...
LabyrinthVD **53120m• 6Cir Mhor (South...
Little ChamonixVD ***406670m• 4Shepherds Crag
Gillercombe ButtressS 3c **723?Gillercombe
Troutdale PinnacleS ***2074105m• 6Black Crag...
Bracket and Slab ClimbS ***588?Gimmer Crag
Ash Tree SlabsVD ***774?Gimmer Crag
'C' RouteS ***385?Gimmer Crag
Bowfell ButtressVD ***472110m• 4Bowfell Buttress
Murray's RouteS 4a ***542?Dow Crag
Jone's Route Direct from Lord's RakeHS 4a **103?Scafell Crag
Moss Ghyll GroovesMVS 4c ***35579m• 4Scafell Crag
Needle RidgeVD **71599m• 5The Napes
The Wasdale CrackHS ***68617m• 2The Napes
Tophet WallHS 4a ***53075m• 4The Napes
New West ClimbVD ***147?Pillar Rock
Rib and Slab ClimbHS 4b ***114?Pillar Rock
Great GullyVD **180267m• 11Craig Yr Ysfa
Gashed CragVD **574190m• 6Tryfan (East Face)
Pinnacle Rib RouteD ***1099164m• 6Tryfan (East Face)
Grooved ArÍteHVD 4a ***2342230m• 8Tryfan (East Face)
Direct RouteVD ***185785m• 5Milestone Buttress
Pulpit RouteVD **120287m• 5Milestone Buttress
Direct RouteVS 4c ***29988m• 7Glyder Fach
HopeVD ***2568135m• 4Idwal Slabs (aka...
LazarusS 4a ***114443m• 2Idwal Slabs (aka...
The AreteVD **59124mIdwal Slabs (aka...
Grey SlabVS 4b ***23281m• 2Glyder Fawr crag
NeaVS 4b **101775m• 4Clogwyn y Grochan
Crackstone RibS 4a ***204255m• 3Carreg Wastad
The WrinkleVD **119275m• 3Carreg Wastad
Flying ButtressVD ***177187mDinas Cromlech
Spiral StairsD ***82384mDinas Cromlech
The CracksHS 4c ***127090m• 6Dinas Mot
Main WallHS 4b ***1039140m• 6Cyrn Las
Avalanche/Red Wall/LonglandsS 4b **313286m• 12Lliwedd
Creagh Dhu WallHS 4b ***107865m• 2Craig y Castell...
Will o' the WispHVD ***23995m• 6Craig Cywarch (aka...
Red Pencil DirectHS 4b ***177?Pen-y-Ghent
Parson's ChimneyHS 4b ***31117mAlmscliff
Sail ButtressHS 4b **167114mBirchen Edge
TopsailVS 4c **228312mBirchen Edge
Powder Monkey ParadeS 4b **144216mBirchen Edge
Flying ButtressHVD 4a ***442724mStanage Popular
April CrackHS 4b ***274116mStanage Popular
Hargreaves' Original RouteVS 4c ***343318mStanage Popular
Central ClimbVS 4c ***78438m• 3Hen Cloud
ModernS 4a *33320mHen Cloud
K2S 4b *50630m• 2Hen Cloud
Via DolorosaVS 4c ***90132mRoaches Lower Tier
Black and TansS 4a ***168430m• 2Roaches Upper Tier
Technical SlabHS 4a **106024mRoaches Upper Tier
Piton RouteVS 4c **58158m• 3Avon Gorge (Main...
The Devil's SlideHS 4a ***914117m• 5Lundy
Demo RouteHS 4b ***199825m• 2Sennen
Terrier's ToothHS 4b ***17440m• 2Chair Ladder
Pendulum ChimneyS 4b ***396?Chair Ladder
DoorpostHS 4b ***186655m• 3Bosigran
Climbers' Club OrdinaryVS 4b **499?• 3The Dewerstone
222 stars72,4917,288m• 262
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