After a failed attempt on the unclimbed south east ridge of Chacraraju East (6001m) with Al Powell, Nick Bullock planned a repeat of the legendary French Alpinist, Nicolas Jaeger's 1978 solo route on the south face (ED1). Nick bumped into 26 year old Swede, Adam Kovach, who had the same plan in mind, so the pair decided to team up and simu-solo the route. Between them, they carried one 40m length of 5mm cord and one 50m 7mm cord, 3 ice-screws, 5 pitons, 2 extenders, 1 full set of wires, an Abalakov threader, a few screw gates and a lot of tat. Not a mighty rack! From reaching the base of the route at 3:40am, the pair climbed for 7 1/2 hours unroped to a snow bowl 150 metres from the summit (sustained Scottish IV with the odd section of V). From here, Jaeger's route traverses right across slabs and exits right, beneath the cornice. Bullock and Kovach climbed 3 new pitches (Scottish VI/7, VI/6 and V/5) up a more direct, left trending mixed line. These three pitches run parallel to the Peruvian/Spanish line climbed 21 August 1984 by A. Garcia, F. J. Escola and W. Silverio, and exit the next point to the right on the summit ridge. The summit was not climbed to, "as life appeared more favourable". The pair descended by rappelling the line climbed, arriving back at their camp 20 hours after starting.
This news story has been read 1,955 times