They climbed as two independent teams with Jack, Dave and Juha free-climbing Fantasia (F7b+/7c 700m) almost onsight (1 pitch redpointed) and onsighting Rivieres Pourpres, an Arnaud Petit route from 2003 (F7c, 500m).
Steve and Twid teamed up to make fast alpine-style ascents of Les Rivieres Pourpres and L'Axe du Mal (F7c+, 600m), another Petit route.
The climbing area is remote, requiring a day of off-road driving and donkey trekking to reach the base of the mountains, but the teams found the rock to be of Verdon quality, only twice as long. Most of the routes had been bolted on lead, so include very steep climbing and runout sections where natural gear is needed. For more information on Taghia, see Alpinist.com.
This year's British Lead and Speed Climbing Championships and a round of the Paraclimbing Cup took place at Awesome Walls,... Read more
15 year old Laura Rogora, from Rome, Italy, has repeated Red Bull, 8c, at Collepardo, needing only three tries, making it her... Read more
James McHaffie had a productive weekend in North Wales, establishing an Ogwen highball arête named Devil's... Read more