MacLeod Climbs Finish to Requiem - E11?

Mick Ryan

10th April, 2006

This has been read 1,327 times

Word has trickled out from ScottishClimbs.com to the UKClimbing.com forums that this weekend MacLeod has climbed the the direct line of the Dave Cuthbertson route, Requiem, on Dumbarton Rock.

MacLeod said recently in the Sunday Herald, “I've known about the true line of the Requiem crack since I started climbing; it's obvious, in your face. You just climb the crack all the way to the top. I'd tried the moves in 2002 when I had just done the first E9 in Scotland and couldn't even hang on the holds.”

MacLeod who has been trying the route over the last year was known to be getting close. This could be the hardest traditional route in the world and a strong contender for E11

Read a full illustrated report at UKClimbing.com articles.

This post has been read 1,327 times

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Comments

Michael Ryan

10 Apr, 2006

Picture here of Dave MacLeod leading Requiem E8 6b, placing the gear on the lead. http://www.scotlandonline.com/outdoors/dumbarton/routes.htm

Michael Ryan

10 Apr, 2006

"10. Requiem E8 6b*** 35m D. Cuthbertson 1983 The central crack line remains one of the very hardest routes in Scotland and has only had five ascents (to 2000). The route has recently had a lead placing all gear on the redpoint (all previous ascents have involved high yoyos or completely preplaced gear). May have been the world's hardest route when first done! From a bolt belay on the ledge, climb the crack with hard moves at its top, then follow the line of holds leading right on the headwall (bold). If you get that far, do battle with the crux last move!"

simes303

10 Apr, 2006

E11? how can it be if you can take the (admittedly large) fall from the crux 10 or more times?

Jon Read

10 Apr, 2006

Oh for gods' sake. A hard climb doesn't have to be death you know! See the many many threads about this, and Bob's mandatory webpage link...

Marc C

10 Apr, 2006

Yes, here we go again. People have fallen off Meshuga, Equilibrium and Parthian Shot and lived...HOW DARE THEY!

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