UKC

Lisa Rands climbs Gaia E8 6c

© Chris Craggs/Rockfax
Lisa Rands, 30, of Bishop, California has climbed Gaia E8 6c at Black Rocks. This is Rand's second E8, she climbed End of the Affair E8 6c at Curbar Edge in 2004.

Gaia is one of Johnny Dawes's grit routes that was also made famous in the film Hard Grit when Jean Mihn Trin-Thieu survived the fall from the slopy finishing moves. You can read descriptions of the Hard Grit routes, including Gaia, at Jon Read's Grit List pages.

Rands was staying at Ben Moon's house in Sheffield with film makers Josh Lowell and Mike Call, who wanted to film her climbing some gritstone. On her second day trying Gaia, Rands was ready for the lead but was thwarted by bad weather; either too warm, too cold, too wet or too windy. As grit aficionados know conditions are crucial on God's rock especially when you are putting your life on the line. She finally achieved the headpoint early on Easter Sunday morning in attempt to beat the Easter break crowds at this popular tourist spot (Rands doesn't usually get out of bed until after 10am so you can imagine how keen she was).

You can read Josh 'Dosage' Lowell's illustrated report on Rand's ascent of Gaia at his website Big Up Productions.

The 5ft 4 inch Rands is on a roll after three knee surgeries in the last two years and she is very happy that she is once again able to push her self physically.

Her other notable hard grit ascents include White Lines E7 6b/c at Curbar Edge in 2003 and Shine On E7/8 6c at Stanage in 2005. You can read a full account of Lisa's Grit experiences, in her own words and illustrated with photos by Dean 'Stone Nude' Fidelman at Lisa's website


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18 Apr, 2006
Thats some serious waddage. Congrats
18 Apr, 2006
18 Apr, 2006
Wow ... I hear even John Cox's dog hasn't managed that one yet. http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=25335
18 Apr, 2006
I top-roped Gaia clean a couple of times the other week, in-between snow showers. I imagine the start is a pretty hard boulder problem if you're less than 6 foot. If you're over 6 foot, it's an 'easy 6b' reach. The top bit is probably significantly easier if you have long arms too. In other words, we already know that The Dawes was a genius. Gaia might be one of the most climbed grit E8s, but for shorties, it actually involves some hard moves. In terms of the line and the quality, I think the climbing on Gaia is probably better than any route on gritstone. Samson. Notoriously graded E9 7b. I tried this on a top rope a few times some years ago. Not really a line with one desperate weird deadpoint. In some ways, I'm surprised it's taken so long to get a repeat, but maybe not at Highball Font 8a? In terms of newsworthiness. They both are. I know quite a lot of the top British women climbers and they are into climbing hard, safe routes. None of them are really into pushing it on the grit. Lisa doesn't seem too worried about the danger of headpointing. Her US sponsors don't really understand grit or how the grades translate, so it's not as if she gets much kudos back home for it. Welford's repeat is significant, really cos the route has a 'history' (i.e. being given a daft grade). He does seem to be being v modest though about a solo, which, one can imagine if someone else had done, would have been well-hyped.
18 Apr, 2006
Most inspirational. Well done Lisa.
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