UKC

North Wales Slate re-equipping

Chris Parkin reports that work has begun on re-equipping Welsh slate. 12mm stainless bolts are being used to replace protection, belays and lower-offs. "A full compliment of dedicated equipment has been purchased using funds from the sale of the guidebook and includes a battery drill, petrol drill and all the tools to install new bolts and remove old ones. The equipment is stored at V12 Llanberis or Indi Climbing Wall on Angelesy.

The activities are supported by local climbers, retailers and climbing walls. Anyone keen to help out on this project should contact the lads at V12 Llanberis, John at Indi Climbing Wall or Chris Parkin.

Check out Mark Reeves' Safe Slate page for a list of re-equipped routes.

To raise funds the current remaining stock of the North Wales Slate climbing guides is being given away! Anyone giving £5 or more to the fund will be given a free copy of the current guidebook; A5, glossy colour pictures by Ray Wood, black and white photo topos and full text descriptions – destined to be a classic collectors publication!

To get your hands on a copy of the current free copy of the current guidebook call at one of the following North Wales locations: V12 Llanberis, Joe Browns Llanberis or Capel Curig, Beacon Climbing Centre or send a cheque donations to: NW Slate Llysfaen, Lon Brynteg, Llandegfan, Menai Bridge, LL59 5NU payable to N W Slate (add £1.50pp to your donation of £5 or more to be sent a free guidebook).

Please remember to include your full UK postal address including postcode to avoid delay. Your cheque will be returned if the supply of current guides runs out."

A new North Wales Slate guidebook is in preparation authored by Pete Robins and Mark Reeves and published by Ground Up. .


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13 Sep, 2006
Thats cool, but does that mean that Heading The Shot will lose those ancient chunks of bed. I think its a good thing in all. If you get to a bit of gear, you want it to count, especially when you are on a spicy slate runnout! Cool!! ED
14 Sep, 2006
Hi Boothy Thats a good question. At present I am steering clear of routes like Heading The Shot, although I am sure that they will eventually be replaced. At repsent the hangers have been threaded with tape by someone. Which means that the joy of trying to fit a karabiner through the tiny wee hole in the angle iron.
14 Sep, 2006
Hi Mick At present I am keeping a fully up to date list of re-equipped routes on my website until the new guide is written. There is a link elsewhere, but I have put one here as well. http://web.mac.com/mark.reeves/iWeb/Markreevesinstruction1/Safe%20Slate.html
Does that mean they will re- equip in a style that mimics the run out style of the original, or will they be adding extra bolts to the routes? Never climbed there but I have heard of deck outs possible if the second bolt isn't clipped before a fall etc. Davie
14 Sep, 2006
It is very much a case by case basis. For instance, I don't see anyone putting a bolt lower than the first one at 22m on Raped By Affection. Nor do I see anyone changing the overall character of the more classic routes. There are a few routes that may well have additional bolts added, these are routes that have been all but forgotten about or been unclimbed for some time. They certainly won't be Euro style 3m spacing
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