Dave Graham third ascent of A Muerte 9aby Mick Ryan Dec/2006
This news story has been read 2,056 times
Now Dave Graham has got the third ascent of A Muerte 9a, first climbed by Richard Simpson earlier this year.
Graham said on his 8a.nu scorecard " Nice climb! 9 tries. Climbed it with a really bad cold. Maybe its 8c+, but who knows, Bad ass Route!" which immediately started a discussion on their message board about a possible downgrading of A Muerte which prompted Richard Simpson to say,
"Throughout my time as a climber I tended to avoid these 'holiday grades', as us Brits put it- found in the likes of Magic Wood, Gorge Du Loup, Colorado etc etc- where it seems everyone can flash 8B boulders and climb 8B+ with relative ease. Instead, I tried to take a more innovative approach, by climbing in areas such as Peak district, Frankenjura, Buoux and Siurana, where only the very best can climb 8B boulders and 8c+/9a routes.
It is through this experience that I believe that El Muerte is a 'proper' 9A. El Muerte is, in my opinion the hardest route I have climbed, thus being harder than Action Directe, Hubble, Unplugged and also harder than many other 9a's I have tried- Rainshadow, Northern Lights etc.
Obviously grades are subjective- but I struggle to see how El Muerte could be considered as 8c+( even though I rather naively suggested that myself). If El Muerte is 8c+, then everything else in the world must go down by at least one or two grades (Kinematrix 8c, Action Directe 8c+ anyone?)"
19 year-old James Squire has just returned from a successful two-week trip to Averstal (AKA: Magic Wood) in Switzerland, climbing... Read more
The fifth round of the IFSC Lead World Cup took place in Arco, Italy this weekend. In this historic climbing town, the event drew... Read more