UKC

Ben Nevis Conditions Report

© sion brocklehurst
With the winter weather picking up there are lots of weather and conditions reports down the Winter Climbing forums at UKClimbing.com and it makes sense to keep your eye on them. If you are out on the hill with pointy things on your boots and strapped (or leashless) to your hands please consider posting a trip report at the Winter Climbing forums.

This just in from Dan Bailey (author of the recent and very popular Aonach Eagach feature, click here to read it) who was up on Ben Nevis yesterday (Wednesday 7th February)

"Conditions very good if you go up high. By no means all routes are in, but some certainly are. Pretty much all the snow on the mountain is bomber neve, and a reasonable amount of ice around too, but not on the lower routes. A pal did Smith's Route a couple of days ago and said it's good. We were on Comb Gully yesterday which was in perfect neve nick from top to bottom, first time placements every time; I doubt any of the screws were that secure, but you'd have to have been trying hard to actually come off! The usual easy gullies looked to be getting many ascents/descents; Raeburn's Easy Route looked very good (and popular); several teams moving well on Tower Ridge; Ledge Route definitely worthwhile; plenty of folk heading further up from the hut towards Indicator Wall and some perhaps to Little Brenva - In the present condition I'd say both of these would be an excellent bet. Weather yesterday was stunning - hardly a breath of wind on the route, cold in the shade but still comfortable to belay, bright sunshine, clear blue sky and views to Rum and Skye. I've not checked a weather forecast, but I'd say that if (big IF?) it holds OK up north it'd be worth dropping everything. That might all have changed by now though!"

Thanks Dan. Dan has another feature about a classic Scottish winter route up at UKClimbing.com next week.

Also check this thread out started by Rob Jarvis that also includes first hand reports of Ben Nevis conditions.


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8 Feb, 2007
Mick, Is this a news worthy post? Can you reconcile promoting this as a news article with the recent concerns regarding winter fatalities/safety by various groups/individuals, especially when the piece contains (in my mind at least) contradictory statements e.g. ‘…first time placements every time; I doubt any of the screws were that secure,…’ and potentially misleading references to ‘…pal did Smith's Route a couple of days ago and said it's good…’. Extrapolating conditions beyond those you have experienced (e.g. ‘…and some perhaps to Little Brenva - In the present condition I'd say both of these would be an excellent bet…’) on a forum where the level of experience and technical ability covers both ends of the climbing spectrum, is irresponsible. There are host of other posters who report on conditions - why do they not make the news page? Sion
8 Feb, 2007
oh FFS. It's his site, he can put what he wants on there, you aren't paying for it. I don't read the Winter Climbing forums as a rule so I was quite interested to read it.
8 Feb, 2007
yea get a grip- people can read that report, go and have a look and make their own judgment- you would have to be a fool to take it word for word.
8 Feb, 2007
Just the type of thing needed to increase honeypotting on already popular routes. I know the info is there if people look for it, but better to hand it to them on a plate.
8 Feb, 2007
Word.
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