Some Bouldering News: Wales, Lakes, Switzerland, Peakby Mick Ryan Apr/2007
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First locally. Simon Panton reports at northwalesbouldering.com that Liam Desroy, 20, son of Graham Desroy, got the second ascent of Mr Fantastic V12/8a+ on the Cromlech Boulders in the Llanberis Pass. Impressive not least because Liam's previous hardest was Lou Ferrino V10/7c+ in Parisella's cave. Both Desroy's had done Jerry's Roof V9/7c, Desroy senior's ascent is thought to be the oldest ascent.
Riverbed Font 8b
Up in the Lakes Greg Chapman and friends added more problems to the circuit at the Langstrath boulders with problems up to Font 7b+. On the west side of Cumbria a pair of daring individuals broke new ground in their search for more esoteric brilliance with the working out of the "Seathwaite Bouldering Circuit".
Full details, problems, downloadable topos and video clips at lakesbloc.co.uk.
More Gaz Parry news of yet another Font 8b repeat this time at Magic Wood in Switzerland where he succeeded on Pura Vida Font 8b, with the original start, which had tried last year. Then he sessioned Riverbed Font 8b (see photo) which he hadn't been on before doing it in about 2 hours. Gaz promises us a video soon at gazparryclimbing.blogspot.com
If you are going out to Switzerland to boulder, please avoid Sonlerto or Brione (village area) as there are serious access problems. More details at this thread at ukbouldering.com
Again more locally as Andi T writes down the forums about restrictions at the Roaches, "Birds have been sighted on the Fourth Cloud...at the Five Clouds. For this reason climbing is restricted on Fourth Cloud buttress (Mirror, Mirror and Boyson's Delight etc) until June 30th.The other clouds are still open for business, as is the bouldering on the Fourth Cloud Boulder."
The BMC access database (RAD) states:
"Update (15/3/07) - No climbing on fourth and fifth cloud or bouldering below or beyond fourth cloud. This Schedule 1 WLCA restriction will be reviewed on April 5th by PDNPA and BMC and may be lifted early."
See the Regional Access Database (RAD) for restrictions on Peak District crags including Five Clouds at climbingcrags.co.uk