St Govanís Head Another significant and very hard new route, this time in South Wales.
On Sunday April 29th, Dave Pickford climbed a major new route at St Govan's Head in Pembroke. The Brothers Karamazov E9 6c takes the groove of Pat Littlejohn's 1986 route Crimes of Passion (E6) at Public Enemy Area (this area fell down in December 2005), then climbs direct where Crimes moves right. Protected in part by a downward pointing peg (an 8mm placement) and involving tenuous 6c climbing, Dave utilised two belayers, Simon Cockman and Dave Walsh, to take advantage more effectively of widely spaced gear in a horizontal break. Ground fall potential is almost certain from the routes upper reaches. This climb is not as hard but more serious than The Big Issue at Bosherston Head and climbs excellent solid limestone.
There is a more detailed report at Planet Fear