Johnny Dawes stars on Rocktalk

Charles Arthur

14th June, 2001

This has been read 1,896 times

The man himself ventured onto the Rocktalk forums to give everyone the benefit of his vision. It's a compelling read: who does he rate among climbers today? What did he think of Parthian Shot (it's controversial)? The best route somebody else did first?
Read the thread at the link below. Thanks to Jude Calvert-Toumin for setting it up. If people want more like that.... do get in touch.

This post has been read 1,896 times

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Comments

led

18 Mar, 2002

Orpheus Wall was my first introduction to the art of sandbagging - or more precisely, being sandbagged. I'd been climbing for about four months, and the visit to Birchen Edge was my third time out on rock. The bloke I went with insisted I lead everything, and it wasn't going too badly until Orpheus Wall! Could I work out what to do with it? Could I buggery! It's a little like Toddy's Wall at Froggat - it often provides good entertainment for those passing by.

Alan James - Rockfax

18 Mar, 2002

But once you have figured it out, it ain't that hard really; well its a well-protected 5c move which agrees with the grade given in most (all?) books. Alan

hoseyb

19 Mar, 2002

Once you work out the knee bar, its just a few cranks, getting off the ground is a might painful tho' hose

Skyfall

19 Mar, 2002

I got my arse kicked by a VS at Birchens on Sunday with a problem start - Barnacle something - took the initial thin crack direct (main guidebook says 5a!) and took numerous falls off it. Felt rather harder than 5a to me, partly due to shiny rock. I haven't failed on a VS for quite a while, good for the soul I s'pose.

Skyfall

19 Mar, 2002

I'm not particularly bothered about defending my ability (as I clearly have none) but I think the crack and groove together are 4c - but if you take the crack on its own (using a sort of layback facing left) I think it is given 5a in the main guide. What I am saying is that it felt quite a bit stiffer than that but perhaps I just didn't get this one quite right! Also, the crucial foot placement is polished to buggery making it rather harder to layback than you'd expect. Anyway, no matter, will be off the grit soon and onto "real" rock :)

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