UKC

BMC Leading Ladder Starts. Too Elitist?

© Knoxy
Each winter many climbing walls in the UK hold bouldering ladders. These are informal competitions where circuits of bouldering problems are set, usually grade banded, and climbers purchase a scorecard and over several visits try to complete all the problems. Some ladders have circuits for kids where the problems are not reach dependent. After each round the scores are totted up, the results put on a notice board and the next round begins. When the days begin to get longer the overall and category winners are announced and prizes given.

It's a great way to get fit, have good social climbing fun, and for some it gives a reason to go down the wall - to attempt those problems that elude you.

Based on this concept the BMC have created a Leading Ladder that starting now, is being held at several climbing walls across the UK. See the venues and dates here

Six routes are being set at each venue: F6b, F6c, F7a, F7b, F7c and F8a. You purchase a scorecard for £1 paid to the venue (plus wall entry fee) and you attempt to climb the routes and get points for each route you succeed on, you get more points if you do the routes first go. Each wall will host the routes for two weeks.

Then in March your top three scores in the series will be added together and the highest combined scores qualify for a Grand Final (date to be announced).

Full rules here: www.thebmc.co.uk/ladder and www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.

You can, if you so wish go to each climbing wall and attempt their routes, a climbing wall winter road trip, a great way not just to get route fit and enjoy the challenge but also a great way to see other walls that you wouldn't normally visit.

However noises are being made about the elitist nature of this leading ladder. Many peoples top grade is below F6b. In fact the majority of the routes in the leading ladder are 6c and harder, which will virtually eliminate most of the climbers in the country from having a go.

If this is to be a true grassroots event, and not just a selection procedure to find new talent, the route standard needs to be dropped to include F4, F5 and F6a routes, with maybe routes specifically set for kids. This would open the BMC Leading Ladder up to the majority of climbers in the UK.

The BMC leading ladder has already begun at Swansea's Dynamic Rock.


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2 Oct, 2007
Stirring Mick? I never thought I'd see the day when one could seemingly seriously refer to Fr6b, which you can still get points if you work, being described as an elitist grade. Redpointing Fr6b on a wall isn't exactly a notable feat. Also, once again, the actual meaning of the word elitism has been lost in the attempts to stir up indignation and hype. There is almost no situation within climbing where elitism is actually the correct description to use. Ho-hum. AJM
2 Oct, 2007
No. It is a genuine concern. We are allowed to question these days.
2 Oct, 2007
You may well be right that that is why they're making it so restrictive. I think it's a real shame that they've left the top age category as a catch all of 46+. A person of nearly 80 who climbs 'only' 6a is extremely impressive, and I would've liked to see the achievement of people like that celebrated.
2 Oct, 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - Dear Mick, Whilst I agree entirely that including easier graded routes could be a great opportunity to broaden participation I hope this article and provocative headline does not undermine or demoralise those who have worked hard (ie Rab and Nick Colton and Commercial Wall Managers) to get this pilot scheme off the ground. As background, primary aim of setting up the Leading Ladder as it was explained to me by Nick was to provide more opportunity for aspirant and current competition adult climbers to practice and measure themselves - hence the higher grades. The strategy was more top-down rather than bottom-up as it were. It would be good to get a measure of how interested or indifferent other posters and parents of children climbing in the 5-6b range would be in participating if lower grade routes were included. A petition of enough interest on this thread would I am sure encourage the inclusion of lower grade routes (and maybe remove the age limit) if not this year then maybe next. Best, Simon
2 Oct, 2007
Perhaps with some easier routes: Fr 5,Fr 5+, Fr 6a, Fr 6a+ you would get more people psyched to have a go, which means more people get a taste of competition climbing and appreciate it more. Also, lowering the grade, opening it to more people, would mean more people through the doors of the UK's climbing walls. Climbing wall owners would like that.
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