VIDEO: First Major New Route On Ben Nevis - The Secretby Rob Jarvis Dec/2007
This news story has been read 19,950 times
"Once in a while in sport, the bar is significantly raised. These events are rare, but this is such a moment."
Says Simon Richardson, author of the SMC Ben Nevis guidebook about this ascent, at the UKClimbing.com forums.
The often eyed but rarely tried (except by one or two very strong teams) crack on the right wall of Number 3 Gully, Ben Nevis had its first ascent on Monday. The strong team of Andy Turner, Steve Ashworth, Viv Scott timed their raid from the South to perfection and experienced superb frosty conditions and great weather for the ascent.
Ashworth described the "approach" pitch as harder than Sioux Wall (VIII,8) and the main pitch, led by Andy, as much, much harder than Knuckleduster (VIII,9). The main pitch involved a mind-boggling array of axe techniques from double can openers to wacky arm hooks around tools to effect some kind of rest. This brutally sustained 35m crack pitch ranged from fist to finger width and was fully iced inside meaning the payload of large cams carried was for ballast only!
The route was led entirely on-sight and in perfect style.
Andy Turner Leading "The Secret"
More details and stunning photos at www.highlandguides.com
The annual British Lead and Speed Championships and the final round of the BMC/MCofS Junior Lead Cup and the IFSC... Read more
Ethan Pringle and Dave Graham have made the 5th and 6th ascent of Adam Ondra's Thor's hammer, 9a+, in the Hanshelleren... Read more
Alexander Megos has made the first ascent of Supernova, 9a+/b, at the very steep Planetarium in Frankenjura. The crux comes at... Read more