UKC

George Ullrich's Lakes Trad Campaign Continues

© Dave Gill.
Karma Kings is a relatively short route at Raven Crag, Walthwaite, Langdale. Originally climbed by Dave Birkett in 1998 and described in the FRCC Langdale Guide as "A serious destiny-defining route which accepts the challenge of the studiously-blank east-facing wall". It is given a grade of E7 6c.

On the 19th April, after a brief inspection on a rope, local trad activist 19 year old George Ullrich was on lead. As you can see, there's a big tree right next to the climb. Some people have been known to put a runner in the tree reducing the grade slightly. George chose not to, and instead used a 'blu-tacced' sideways swedge and very poor skyhook placement. It's just above this hook placement where the crux is, and having done that, you've still got a massive runout to the top. Pretty bold you could say.

More photos at www.steepmedia.blogspot.com

In February this year George repeated Impact Day E8/9 6c on Pavey Ark and Dawes Rides a Shovel Head E8 6c on Raven Crag, Langdale

George is sponsored by Metolius, Evolv and Prana.


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23 Apr, 2008
Good effort George. I'd like to think those junior club sessions at Kendal Wall were the basis of your success - or maybe not! I belayed a mate on this around 8 years ago now. After only managing to find one skyhook placement about 6 feet up, to help prevent a tumble off the belay ledge, he reluctantly put a sling in the tree and did it after a few goes on a top rope and a couple of fat reefers to relax. The runout after the hard climbing was something else. I'd have thought it's been done before without the tree, but maybe I'm wrong! Belayers beware, the ledge is one giant ants nest.
23 Apr, 2008
How environmentally unsound! It has been done before without the tree or the skyhook on at least two occasions, E8 proposed. I belayed on one of them.
23 Apr, 2008
I did the second ascent, no tree. I think Dave used the tree, but it was probably about 10 years ago and I'm not sure anymore.
23 Apr, 2008
Good effort Gorgeous.
23 Apr, 2008
Was dylo 3rd or 4th?
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