Steph Davis Climbs Beautiful Ungraded Moab Crack

Katrina Mohr

28th April, 2008

This has been read 26,847 times

On April 6, Steph Davis made the first female ascent and third ascent of Concepcion (ungraded, 220') in Day Canyon, near Moab, Utah. Established in 2003 by Davis's husband, Dean Potter, Concepcion was the first free ascent and link-up of the two-pitch aid route Acromaniac (5.10 A0). Concepcion received its second ascent earlier this year by Alex Honnold (who recently free solo of Zion's Moonlight Buttress).

Davis described Concepcion as "definitely one of the most striking splitter cracks I've seen." She added that it was her most technically demanding project ever—the crack is off-size for her in both the finger and offwidth sections.

Full report and photos at the Alpinist Website.

This post has been read 26,847 times

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Comments

tobyfk

28 Apr, 2008

Some high-quality whining in the Alpinist news page comments section. Americans really are much funnier (whether intended or unintended) online than Brits. Talking of which, isn't it time for a UKC news item on the approaching-2000-posts Half Dome South Face thread at SuperTopo?

Michael Ryan

28 Apr, 2008

You reckon Toby... you mean that one about the rap-bolting clean-climbing ethical queen, Doug Robinson, the one who sells new routes to the highest bidder. He is a hero of mine by the way, one of the original Eastern Sierra vagabonds. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=566859

tobyfk

28 Apr, 2008

More than just DR though ... it's got Scott Cosgrove, John Bachar, Randy Leavitt ... one first ascentionist biten by a rattle snake, the other one almost laid low by antibiotic-resistant staph ... the thread analysed in a Rock and Ice editorial ... the Rock and Ice editorial then analysed in the thread. Epic stuff.

TobyA

28 Apr, 2008

"come on guys. don't hate because she's beautiful. hate her because she's a successful, shameless self-promoter with lots a free clothes and gear." That's both very intentional and very funny. I like her quote: "So I just started yelling, and somehow flew back into the rock, doing move after move at maximum exhaustion, almost in a warrior trance state." I knew there must be a better way of saying "I was totally knackered, but I got really angry and didn't let go!" Sounds like me on my few E1 ticks. :-)