Chris Savage, 8b onsight in angerby Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com May/2008
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Chris was the Junior British Indoor Climbing Champion in 1998 and some may remember him out climbing Chris Sharma for the first ascent of Dark Horse a V11 at Black Mountain in California.
In March, climbing at Sella Wild Side, Chris redpointed two 8b+/8c's Dosis and Espacio Tiempo, and two 8b+'s Oceano and Septiembre.
He then moved to Siurana where he had one very memorable day. Chris takes up the story
"I had been working on Migranya 8b for a few days and wasn´t really enjoying the route as the pockets are so sharp. However, it started raining and Migranya is one of the few routes you can try in the rain. I pulled through the crux feeling pretty strong then on the most important clip my loyal belayer had a little trouble giving me enough slack to clip.
I managed to hold on long enough for her to sort out the knot in the rope. I got a bit worked up and I think this is what pulled me through the upper crux!
Having redpointed Migranya the rain stopped and I decided to just have a little play on Zona 0 another 8b ("40m realy nice climbing with a slapy crux in an awesome posision" says Chris on his 8a.nu scorecard). I somehow managed to slap my way through the crux and onsight the route. My best day of climbing to date."
We'll no doubt hear more from Chris as he is on a year-long climbing trip.