UKC

Trotter warms up on Requiem E8

© JLS
Registered User JLS reports on the UKC forums:

"He [Sonnie Trotter] led Requiem super smoothly in warm sunny low friction conditions. He placed two bits of gear from ...the bottom of the route, climbed the crack placing four bits of gear, stopping to chalk-up occasionally. At the end of the crack he spent a few minutes shaking-out, complaining of being pumped but didn't ever look anything but solid. He then place three further bits of gear one just at his feet and the two final bits including (presumably) the famous RP and continued to the top in fine style."

Requiem is the original crack-line that Rhapsody breaks out from. Graded E8 6b and first climbed in 1983 by Dave Cuthbertson, Requiem is reportedly Fr 8a+ in physical difficulty which would make it one of the hardest routes in the world to be climbed at that time.

Trotter is over to attempt Dave Macleod's super-route Rhapsody and seems to be making good progress. Trotter also rates the chances of some of our home grown heroes:

From Sonnie's Blog:

"I say guys like Steve McClure and James Pearson are perfect candidates, they are light and strong. I'm about 165 which is nearly 12 Stone and I'm a tad bit worried about the additional distance I will travel on the fall, not to mention the extra force I am putting on those small wires. I brought four Screamers with me, to help reduce the violence on the gear."

With the weather looking set to be perfect we are all wishing Sonnie the best of luck with his attempts on Rhapsody.


This post has been read 26,735 times

Return to Latest News


he led it? And rhapsody, any news?
13 May, 2008
//www.sonnietrotter.com/roadlife.php
13 May, 2008
He lead Requiem super smoothly in warm sunny low friction conditions. He placed two bits of gear from what passes as the ground (the ledge) at the bottom of the route, then climbed the crack placing four bits of gear, stopping to chalk-up occasionally. At the end of the crack he spent a few minutes shaking-out, complaining of being pumped but didn't ever look anything but solid. He then place three further bits of gear one just at his feet and the two final bits including (presumably) the famous RP and continued to the top in fine style. After a 5 or 10 minute break he worked the Rhapsody section on top rope but I didn't pay much attention to his progress here but I did notice he was hanging around on the rope so I suspect there wasn't a clean link-up of that section this time. I boulder at Dumby quite a bit and if conditions on the boulders were reflected on the route then conditions were far from ideal with holds feeling pretty slippy in comparison to what they can feel like.
13 May, 2008
I've uploaded a photo to my gallery. and hope post a link to more photos tomorrow morning.
13 May, 2008
Aye, where were ye last Friday? Davie
More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email