Female ascent of Deprivation - Mount Hunterby Luke Bauer - Alpinist, Jack Geldard - UKC May/2008
This news story has been read 27,191 times
It also marks Turgeon's second ascent of the mountain this month, as he, Freddie Wilkinson and Ben Gilmore climbed Moonflower Buttress in a 52 hour round push only a few days before. Hart and the late Sue Nott had attempted the line two years ago (which would have made the first all female ascent), but found “absolutely no ice” on the route.
First climbed in '94 by Scott Backes and Mark Twight, Deprivation didn't see a complete repeat ascent until 2002 when it was climbed over three days by Stephen Farrand and John Kelley. Mt. Hunter itself was first climbed in 1954 by Fred Beckey, Henry Meybohm and Heinrich Harrer (of Eiger and Tibet fame).
Since the first ascent, Mt. Hunter has become a forcing ground for hard, high standard routes in Alaska, climbed in the most committing of styles. Taking a line just to the left of Deprivation is the British route The Knowledge climbed in 2001 by the late Jules Cartwright and Ian Parnell on which Parnell broke two ribs and Cartwright took several leader falls.
Full report and action photo at the Alpinist Website.
Tim Emmett and Slovenian climber Klemen Premrl have established a remarkable new line at Helmcken Falls in Canada, which the pair... Read more
Last year we totally surprised ourselves - we ran a footless comp and somehow it worked. It actually worked so well that we felt... Read more