Steve McClure Success at Kilnsey Todayby Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com May/2008
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click to enlarge A few hours ago today Steve McClure left Kilnsey Crag in North Yorkshire with another fine and hard redpoint to add to his already impressive CV of world class sport climbs.
If you watched the Posing Productions climbing film, PSYCHE, you will be familiar with the unclimbed extension to Steve Dunning's Northern Exposure - Part 1 an 8b+ that McClure was attempting last year which included his now trademark Bat Hang. Today Steve McClure climbed Part 1, which finishes at half-height anchors and then continued up the steep blank-looking wall above to the anchors above the final roof that caps the North Buttress - see photo.
Murmours of 9a/9a+ were heard and Steve's partners Rab Carrington and Alan Austin muttered, "Boy done good."
According to Kevin Avery who was at the crag, Steve got the route second redpoint this afternoon and Steve said that it went, 'easier than expected,' an almost nonchalant ascent according to Kevin. McClure is obviously in fine form, it is early in the season, and a few weeks ago he repeated Mark Leach's Bat Route which is now 8c+ after shedding some holds.
Now all we need is for someone to attempt to repeat Steve's 9's at Malham and Kilnsey which include, Northern Lights 9a, Overshadow 9a+ and Rainshadow 9a, and now the extension to Northern Exposure.
Steve McClure is sponsored by Petzl, Five Ten, Beal and Fat Face.
Thank you to Pete Chadwick and Kevin Avery for alerting us and providing details.
Photos and quotes at www.climbmagazine.com