Steve McClure redpointed Rhapsody today, making him the third climber to climb this landmark route at Dumbarton Rock established by Dave MacLeod in 2006.
BUT FIRST: The Canadian, Sonnie Trotter got the second ascent last Monday (June 10) then on Friday (June 13) made the third ascent of Rhapsody placing the gear as he climbed in one push to the top of the route; Dave MacLeod placed the gear on the lead then down climbed to the resting ledge before continuing to the top: discussion and eyewitness report of Sonnie's latest Rhapsody ascent here.
Then to add completeness to his four ascents of the Requiem headwall he added a fifth ascent, and second new route: Trotter had climbed the original Requiem (finishes up and trending right .. E8 6b .. 8a+), climbed Rhapsody twice (left, up, back right and up -E11 7a or 5.14b R or 8c/+), and Direquiem (right a bit, left then straight up - 5.14a R or 8b+) - Sonnie then made another new ascent but this time it was as for Rhapsody but exiting left to the arete before the crux of Rhapsody. This he named Cop Out 5.13b/c R , which in sport grade parlance is 8a/8a+ with long but safe falls.
Can somebody do a photodiagram please?
Full details at Sonnie's blog; www.sonnietrotter.com/roadlife
BUT BACK TO STEVE McCLUREWe talked briefly to Steve and his climbing partner Keith Sharples this evening whilst they were in a Morrisons fuelling up with Irn Bru and oatcakes before the five hour drive south back home.
Steve climbed Rhapsody today, Sunday 15th June. This is the fastest ascent so far. Steve was on the route for short periods of practice for four days spread over two, two day visits. He got the route on his third redpoint (to be confirmed).
Steve did say that it needed a lot of energy and that the buzz was enjoyable but was a lot different than doing hard sport routes.
The grade? Steve and Keith joked that it was "harder than E1 but easier than E15."
Let's give Steve time to compose his thoughts; he said he would be in contact later.
Steve McClure is sponsored by Petzl, Five Ten, Beal and Fat Face.
Dave Simmonite has just put a report and photo up at www.climbmagazine.com