Norwegians Repeat Historic Trango Routeby Dougald MacDonald Climbing magazine Jun/2008
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The first ascent of Great Trango's northeast face in 1984 was a groundbreaking Himalayan climb—perhaps the first Grade VII big wall completed at high altitude. Stein Aasheim, Finn Daehli, Hans Christian Doseth, and Dag Kolsrud spent three weeks climbing the initial two-thirds of the face, and then, low on food, decided they'd have a better chance of succeeding if two men descended. A week later, Daehli and Doseth completed the wall and continued up about six pitches of difficult ice, snow, and mixed ground to make the first ascent of Great Trango's east summit. During their descent, however, the two men fell to their deaths about halfway down the wall, and their bodies were buried by an avalanche at the base of the face.
Read the full report by Dougald MacDonald at Climbing.com.