Norwegians Repeat Historic Trango Route

by Dougald MacDonald Climbing magazine Jun/2008
This news story has been read 26,381 times

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+Norwegian Buttress (VII 5.10+ A4) on Great Trango Tower in Pakistan, 73 kb A four-man Norwegian team has made the probable second complete ascent of the Norwegian Buttress (VII 5.10+ A4) on Great Trango Tower in Pakistan. Rolf Bae, Bjarte Bø, Sigurd Felde, and Stein Ivar Gravdal climbed the 4,500-foot northeast pillar of Great Trango and then continued to the 20,443-foot eastern summit. The ascent required 27 days, followed by three days to descend.

The first ascent of Great Trango's northeast face in 1984 was a groundbreaking Himalayan climb—perhaps the first Grade VII big wall completed at high altitude. Stein Aasheim, Finn Daehli, Hans Christian Doseth, and Dag Kolsrud spent three weeks climbing the initial two-thirds of the face, and then, low on food, decided they'd have a better chance of succeeding if two men descended. A week later, Daehli and Doseth completed the wall and continued up about six pitches of difficult ice, snow, and mixed ground to make the first ascent of Great Trango's east summit. During their descent, however, the two men fell to their deaths about halfway down the wall, and their bodies were buried by an avalanche at the base of the face.

Read the full report by Dougald MacDonald at Climbing.com.

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