New Route on Eiger North Face - F8a, 900mby Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Sep/2008
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"Finally we made it! Five years have passed since Stephan Siegrist and I first ascended the route on the North Face of the Eiger during the hottest summer ever in 2003. Now, I was able to climb every of the 27 pitches redpoint.
Stephan belayed and supported me. Together we climbed this very difficult and demanding rock climb on the Eiger Northface. Two pitches have the difficulty of 7c+, one pitch 8a and the rest of the pitches vary mostly between 7a and 7b+." commented Steck on the Mountain Hardware Blog.
The route, Pacienia (meaning patience) was first climbed and equipped by the pair in 2003, although Siegriest had begun work on the route with Raul Bayard back in 2001. The route waited five years for a free ascent, which was done over two days; August 29 and 30 2008, with the pair swinging leads on the route's 27 pitches.
"Only when a route is free climbed, is she definitively climbed." said Steck. The pair didn't name the route until they had free climbed the entire line.