Akito Matsushima Grabs A Quick Mementoby Kevin Avery Sep/2008
This news story has been read 26,327 times
The problem was first discovered in 2003 and is apparently "pure power" consisting of only seven moves up a steeply overhanging face. Zangerl made the first ascent in August 2005 and tentatively gave it Font 8c+/V16, saying that it was far harder than anything else he'd ever tried or climbed. Since then it has been repeated by Kilian Fischhuber, Bernard Schwaiger and Kornelius Obleitner with the latter pair both stating that they felt Font 8c was closer to the mark.
Whether Matsushima will agree with these downgrades remains to be seen, but what is clear from the speed of his ascent is that the problem didn't provide him with too much trouble.
Watch a video of Bernard Zangerl Climbing Memento