Font 8c Link-up Falls In Fontainebleauby Kevin Avery Sep/2008
This news story has been read 26,643 times
The line is a link-up of two established problems; a 15 move Font 7c+ added to an already beefy Font 8b/+. It first rose to fame as French master Jacky Godoffe's project, but despite falling from the last move Godoffe never managed to complete the problem.
Bergasse first climbed Quoi De Neuf Acte 2 in May this year (see a video HERE) and was inspired to try the full line.
Bergasse is no stranger to hard climbing having red-pointed routes of F8c. The new problem is some 25 moves long and verges on route status, requiring huge power-endurance for success.
Can a problem such as this be compared to a short Font 8c bloc or would it be better to give long link-ups like these a route grade, as has been proposed for some of the long links in Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians, Australia?
The grade debate will rage on, and yes we need a benchmark, but grading is not an exact science and just as one person's proposed 8c is no consensus, neither is a first repeater's downgrade to 8b+.
Remy Bergasse is sponsored by Five-Ten, Beal and Expression Holds.
As reported yesterday, James McHaffie and Ryan Pasquill onsighted John Dunne's The Great Escape E8 (6b, 6c, 6b) at Cioch... Read more
Last weekend, the living legendd Jacky Godoffe was the chief route setter at the amazing Bouldering World Cup event in... Read more