Kitty Wallace Becomes Youngest Female Brit To Climb 8a

by Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com Oct/2008
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+14 year Kitty Wallace redpointing Daniboy 8a, Kalymnos., 229 kb
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On the 23rd September, 14 year-old Kitty Wallace from London became the youngest female British climber to redpoint a confirmed 8a sport route with an ascent of Daniboy and on the same day achieved a 7b+ and 7c onsight.

Martin Watson is believed to be the youngest British climber to redpoint F8a+ with his ascent of Grooved Arete at Kilnsey, aged 14.

The hardest redpoint from a female British junior prior to Kitty's climb was Leah Crane's ascent of Orion, also in Kalymnos. This was originally graded 8a, but was subsequently downgraded to 7c+, which nonetheless was still the hardest to date. There is no chance of Daniboy being downgraded and it is widely regarded as being a hard 8a.

The route is 20 metres high and overhangs continuously. The climbing style is powerful moves between reasonable but widely spaced handholds. Kitty worked it over 2 days and did it first redpoint on her third day.

Two Onsights On The Same Day

Perhaps more astonishing was that in the same day she also onsighted Spartacus 7b+ and The Beginning at the End 7c! The 7c onsight is almost certainly the hardest by someone her age from Britain and this surely marks the most impressive day's sport climbing by a British junior.

The ascents were all the more impressive considering that Kitty can count her total number of days on rock prior to the Kalymnos trip on both hands!

Neil Gresham who was with Kitty in Kalymnos commented that he had never seen anybody make an 8a look so easy and that he was thinking of tapping her up for a few coaching tips!

A special mention is needed for 'The Westway Development Trust' who have coached and sponsored Kitty for several years.

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