Jordan Buys; A New E8 at Earl Crag, Yorkshireby Adam Lincoln Nov/2008
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The route, now named French Duke, and given a tentative grade of E8 7a takes the arete to the right of Mind Bomb. It boils down to a three or four move boulder problem in the sky which Jordan thought warranted a bouldering grade of Font 7c/+ (V9/10) and after a brief play on a rope, I'd agree with that. The gear which is just over half height, would probably protect the crux, just, if it held. The last few easier moves may result in a ground fall.
Jordan had spent a while on the route, refining a good enough sequence to go for the lead and he also struggled with conditions. The wind seemed to be blowing in the opposite direction to normal on Saturday, and this helped. As soon as the first successful top rope had been had, he went for the lead the next go.
And the rest, as they say, is now history.
The route was captured on video by Posing Productions which should have the ascent on their website in the next week. Photographs were also taken.