Turner and Thacker Repeat Snotty's Gully, 1000m M5+

by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Mark Clifford AwardNov/2008
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+North face of Phari Lapcha, Snotty's Gully, 66 kb
Andy Turner (first ascent of the now sought after 'The Secret' on Ben Nevis) and James Thacker (Mountain Instructor - Blog) have just returned to Kathmandu following an attempt on Phari Lapcha (6017m) in Nepal's Khumbu region.

Although this attempt was repelled at half height, the pair went on to repeat a hard Khumbu classic: the Bracey-Bullock line Snotty's Gully.

Named in memory of the late Sue Nott, Snotty's Gully, was decribed by Alpinist Magazine as a "stunning 1000 metre ice-gully... comprising of some of the most perfect water ice ever climbed by the team [Bullock/Bracey]"

Turner and Thacker left Gokyo at 5am on the 17th November, reaching two-thirds height (WI5 and M5+). After an open bivvy, the final water ice pitches led to the coffee-table-sized pointed rock summit on the northwest ridge. This was followed by a descent to the Upper Machermo Glacier and the Machermo village on the evening of the 18th.

  • Snotty's Gully - ED1, WI5, M5+, c1000m - Phari Lapcha West (Dawa Peak) - 5977m

Read a report on the Mountain Equipment Website (with photo): www.mountain-equipment.co.uk


The expedition would like to acknowledge the generous support of The Mark Clifford Award, The British Mountaineering Council, The Mount Everest Foundation and The Alpine Club. As well as the continuing support from: Mountain Equipment, Haglofs, OMM, Camp Four, Lyon Equipment, CauseandFX, Lakeland Climber.
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