Bouldering News: Alex Johnson & Bernd Zangerlby Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Jan/2009
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"Alex Johnson has had an amazing day at the Buttermilks today, which included her ascent of The Mystery (V12 / Font 8A+). The same morning, she also flashed The Fall Guy (V9 / Font 7C)."
Alex Johnson won the Bouldering World Cup in Vail last year and also climbed the first female ascent of Clear Blue Skies (V12 / Font 8A+), a fingery testpiece in Mt. Evans.
Reported (with photo) on 8a.nu:
"Bernd Zangerl has made the 2nd ascent of Fred Nicole's Entlinge, (V15 / Font 8C), at the Murgtal, Switzerland. Fred made the first ascent of this steep, 6 move boulder in the spring of 2005 after having worked it on and off for a few years..."
Bernd Zangerl had a mention in Tyler Landman's UKC 2008 Bouldering Article after his problem Memento had a string of repeats, and a possible down grade from Font 8C+.
Tyler commented: "Making first ascents and breaking new ground is always hugely difficult as the World's eyes are upon you and after many days, months, or years of effort, the true difficulty is always difficult to ascertain, especially with low percentage moves like dynos."
Bernd replied on the UKC forums to clear up the matter, mentioning the new sequence found by subsequent ascentionists. Bernd is obviously on top form with his fast repeat of Entlinge.
Watch a video of Bernd climbing Entlinge (8C)
In late October, Niccolò Ceria repeated Voyager sit start, ~8B+, at Burbage North. Now, there is a... Read more