Ueli Steck Nearly Onsights El Capby Dougald MacDonald Climbing magazine May/2009
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And the one pitch that spoiled his onsight? It was the 5.11c crack off the top of El Cap Spire, just before Golden Gate heads right from the Salathé Wall. Steck slipped on wet rock on this relatively easy pitch, but onsighted the route's five 5.12 and three 5.13 pitches.
Steck climbed Golden Gate over four days, leading every pitch, with his new wife, Nicole, belaying. (They were honeymooning in the western United States.) Steck also hauled their heavy bag after every lead, adding to his workload.
Full story by Dougald MacDonald at www.climbing.com