PHOTOS: Tom Bolger Climbs 'Old School F8c' in Spainby Pete O'Donovan May/2009
This news story has been read 6,880 times
Although the grade of F8c may seem rather modest by current stratospheric levels, the route, which features extremely powerful climbing out through a 20 metre cave roof, has very probably seen only two repeats (before Tom's) since it was first climbed in 1996 by Dani Andrada, and that's not for want of people trying! “Old school 8c”, Dani calls it.
Tom and girlfriend Lynne Malcolm came over to Catalunya last summer, ostensibly on an extended climbing trip, but almost immediately fell in love with the place and decided to settle. Their work schedule, as English teachers at a private language school in Lleida, consists mainly of afternoon/evening hours, thus letting them climb at least 4 days a week, but only if they get up early — the pair must pack up and leave the crags before most of the local hotshots have barely finished their second espresso!
Tom's previous achievements here include Ingravid Extension and La Nueva Ola, a pair of F8c+'s at Santa Linya, both featuring similarly appallingly steep rock to his latest Sant Llorenç ascent.
Given his age, motivation and exceptional talent, it surely won't be too long before Tom enters that most select of clubs — Brits who've done F9a.
UKClimbing.com would like to thank Pete O'Donovan for this report and superb photographs.
This week's Friday Night Video will please both climbers and mountain bikers. It's a quirky fusion of both activities which will... Read more
UKC Assistant Editor Natalie Berry has hit the mainstream press today following the release of the Hot Aches Productions film... Read more
Dani Andrada has repeated Barnabé Fernandez' , ~9b, at just north of Malaga in southern Spain. Dani's... Read more
Between 29 January and 19 February this year, Sachi Amma climbed seven 9a's or harder, including one 9b, Fight or flight, in... Read more