Eddie Barbour Climbs Divided Years E8/9 6c

by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Jun/2009
This news story has been read 4,651 times

+Leading Divided Years, Saturday 30th May, 8pm, 45 kb
Leading Divided Years, Saturday 30th May, 8pm
Eddie Barbour, Jun 2009
© Paul Swail
+Eddie Barbour after climbing Divided Years E8/9 6c, 120 kb
Eddie Barbour after climbing Divided Years E8/9 6c
UKC News
© Eddie Barbour Collection
Eddie Barbour, the Belfast based climber, has led one of Ireland's most demanding and famous trad routes. Divided Years tackles a severely overhanging prow in the Mourne Mountains, featuring hard but well protected climbing at a physical difficulty of around F8a+.

Eddie headpointed the route and fell on his first lead attempt. The fall was held by a hand placed 'pecker' - a metal hook commonly used for aid climbing but becoming increasingly popular on very hard trad routes.

Eddie placed the pecker as it was faster and less strenuous than placing a more conventional piece:

"I think that definitely saved me a lot of time!" he said.

Commenting on the grade, which is now settling around E8/9, Eddie said:

"It's definitely a notch harder than any other E8's I've done, but E9 seems like a huge deal to me. I'd agree with Ricky [Bell] and give it a slash grade at the moment. When I've climbed a confirmed E9 I'll be more fit to judge!"

Divided Years was first climbed by John Dunne back in 1995 who suggested a grade of E10 7a. It has previously seen repeats from Lakeland legend Dave Birkett, top Scottish climber Dave MacLeod and local climber Ricky Bell.

+Pecker Hooks, 20 kb
Pecker Hooks
© UKC News, Jun 2009
Peckers have been quite in vogue on hard trad routes recently, being used on Trauma (E8) at Dinas Mot, The Walk of Life (E9/12) at Dyer's Lookout and on Divided Years.

Eddie Barbour is sponsored by PODsacs

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