Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor, Jul 2009
© Jack Geldard 2009
Hard Sport Onsights for Katy Whittaker
On Monday 6th July Katy Whittaker onsighted two classic F7c sport routes at Kilnsey Crag, Yorkshire; Dominatrix and Biological Need.
Dominatrix is a 3 star, classic route, forging a line through the steepness on the left side of the impressive north buttress and was first climbed by Yorkshire duo Martin Berzins and Chris Sowden back in 1985.
Biological Need is another 3 star classic, taking a steep line up a central buttress of Kilnsey, passing a huge glued spike at the top roof. Biological has a hard move low down, near to the second bolt, that throws off many onsight attempts. It was first climbed by Mick Lovatt back in 1988.
Katy also had a good day on Sunday the 5th of July, redpointing I've Been A Bad Bad Boy (F7c+), at LPT, Llandudno, North Wales.
Onsighting F7c may not sound like a cutting edge achievement, with world super-stars churning out onsights of impossibly high numbers on a regular basis. However in British terms, there are only a small list of women who have redpointed F8a, and an even smaller list who have onsighted F7c on British soil.
Thanks go to Martin Panton of Marmot for the photograph.