Dave MacLeod on the FA of Present Tense E9 7a
© Claire MacLeod / Velvet Antlers More first ascents on Scottish sandstone for MacLeod machine:
Dave MacLeod has climbed two more new routes at Seanna Mheallan, Torridon. Kelvinator (E8 6c) is named after Dave's old fridge and according to Dave, involves some pretty unusual moves:
"Bear-hug up the fridge block and do a weird rotation palming move into the niche on the left - sort of like the move at the top of the groove on Gaia, but a fair bit harder."
Time to grit the teeth and stay alive!The main event was Present Tense (E9 7a), a line which Dave initially thought might weigh in at a mighty E10 until he discovered two tiny runners:
MacLeod completes Present Tense E9 7a
"The discovery of two highly unlikely micro wires eased back the chance of a 15 metre groundfall from the crux to something noticeably under 100%"
Judging by his recent run of new routes it would seem that MacLeod has the whole of Scotland to himself right now, and he is making the most of it. MacLeod is currently eyeing up a new line that he thinks might warrant E11. We await more info with bated breath.
Thanks go to Claire MacLeod for the use of this photograph.