UKC

Japan and Great Britain Have Most Peak First Ascents

© Topper Harley
Lindsay Griffin reports at the BMC website that:

'In a recently prepared table, which lists the number of first ascents made by individual countries of peaks of more than 6,400m, Great Britain is second only to Japan. To the end of 2008, Japanese expeditions have made first ascents of around 225 peaks, while Britain's tally is 147. India lies third with around 103.'

These statistics were collated by Professor Josef Hala from Prague in the Czech Republic, an internationally-noted classical pianist but also a man with a passion for mountaineering statistics.

Lindsay continues:

'There are a number of reasons behind Great Britain's high placing in this table. Britain scores highly in the early exploration of the Himalaya: Shipton's expeditions, for instance, made dozens of ascents of peaks over 6,400m.

This has left a legacy. As Alex Huber noted in a recent interview, "It's said that the British have the boldest style, and the boldest opinions of climbing in general ................It's a British tradition to go climbing in places where nobody has gone before, which means they take on the real challenge."'

Full report, with further analysis: Japan and Great Britain top first ascents table


This post has been read 6,096 times

Return to Latest News


26 Jul, 2009
The Swarm is at around 7,000 ft Matthew, that's around 2,100m, so it misses the cut off point of 6,400m that the good Professor Josef uses. Apart from that The Swarm is only 5m high whereas Everest is around 5,000m from its base, so naturally it is harder than a climb with an elevation difference of only 5m from base camp to summit. For readers who are not familiar with The Swarm it is a small but perfectly formed quartz-monzonite boulder problem at the Secrets of the Beehive Area in the Buttermilk, California that Matthew first ascended. It has a difficulty of confirmed 8b+ or V14 and I bet your bottom dollar that Kenton The Cool could not climb it once let alone six times like he did with Everest. The Swarm: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=111639 Everest: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=117809 As you can see however though The Swarm is steeper than Everest. Mick Ryan Senior Editor UKClimbing.com
26 Jul, 2009
Must be hard, Tyler Landman seems to be using some kind of extra limb coming out of his face to get up it!
28 Jul, 2009
Any idea why he chose 6400m? Seems to me that there a thousands of worthwhile mountain first ascents, that have been done and remain to be done, below this height.
28 Jul, 2009
Good question. Maybe 6400m is what he considers to still be a peak of significant size in the Himalayas. If the work was focussed on Europe I guess 3000m would be of similar stature? So of course this ignores all alpinism in Europe and, as you say, peaks everywhere else that are <6400m. Just one of those things I guess -- once you put statistics in context you realise the headline is sort of misleading. "Japan and Great Britain Have Most Peak First Ascents" should have "Over 6400m" addended which doesn't sound so clear-cut. You could just as easily change the headline to: "Japan and Great Britain Have Most." Hoorah for Blighty! We have most! I have to admit when I read the title I thought it was referring to the Peak District.
28 Jul, 2009
Of course, Great Britain RAN most of those peaks from about 1700 - 1945, so we should be expected to have made most of the first ascents. Quite apart from all the ones in the Alps and Caucasus we did first because the locals were a bit unmotivated... Y (tongue in cheek smiley)
More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email