Japanese Junior Hits The Gritby Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Aug/2009
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Toru Nakajima has taken to the gritstone like, well, like a world class climber to a foreign rock type.
In the first few days of his summer cragging trip, the young Japanese climber visited Stanage and managed an onsight ascent of The Storm (V9), a fast repeat of Deliverance (V8+) and then moved on to the Victorian Overmantel (V9), dispatching the hideous move on his third try in the full summer sun.
Routes that have had the Toru treatment so far include the Burbage test-pieces Simba's Pride (E8), which he rapidly headpointed, Life Assurance (E6) climbed on sight, and he has moved on to top roping Parthian Shot and Dynamics of Change (both E9). A mid-summer repeat of either of these routes at the age of fifteen would be a remarkable, if somewhat dangerous, achievement.
Toru is no stranger to hard bouldering and traditional climbing, having made the second ascent of Font 8B slabs (See a UKC News Video of Bansousha) back in Japan and also having made the first ascent of a traditionally protected crack at a French grade of F8b (approximately E9).
The visiting junior is over in the Peak District for two more weeks and told UKClimbing.com "I want to climb Gritstone. It is my dream."
UKClimbing.com wish Toru the best of luck - stay safe.