Miles Gibson beneath his new route at Wimberry. The chalk shows the line of Dangermouse, E9
© Ben Heason, Sep 2009 Miles Gibson has succeeded on a major new route at Wimberry near Sickbay Shuffle. He called the route Dangermouse and gave it a grade of E9 7a. "You get gear behind a crack (on Bertie's Bugbear) and a flake on the arete. That's it though, there is no more gear."
Miles climbed the route late on Saturday after waiting for the right cooler conditions. He has been trying it on and off for the last two months but the conditions proved very frustrating. When it was cool in August it was wet, and since the weather improved, it has usually been too warm.
The steep direct arete below Sickbay Shuffle is one of many 'last great problems' at Wimberry. Over the years this wonderful crag has given up its treasures sporadically with Kevin Thaw's Sectioned, E8 being the last major new route in 2004. However there are still plenty of gaps and perhaps Miles' new route might spur some more interest in this superb crag.
The topo below shows the intense middle section of the crag. There are still plenty of gaps up here including the awesome wall right of Blue Light's Crack. It looks like we can look forward to 'last great problems' for many years to come. With 2 x E9s, 3 x E8s, 3 x E7s and 6 x E6s on the crag, surely this must now rival Burbage South and Black Rocks and the Peak District's highest concentration of hard and bold trad? - perhaps it just needs an E10 to take the crown!
1 Order of the Phoenix E8 6c