UKC

Hard Ascents in Germany's Frankenjura

© Ricarda Miller

German climber Sarah Seeger has climbed Steinbock (F8c) in the Frankenjura. This is Sarah's first F8c and is the first F8c to be climbed by a woman in the Frankenjura. Sarah climbed the route on the 3rd of October after an intensive period of effort working the climb throughout September.

The route, a powerful roof on the typical Frankenjura pockets, was first climbed by Markus Bock in 2008.

Sarah Seeger redpointing Steinbock (F8c), Frankenjura  © Ricarda Miller
Sarah Seeger redpointing Steinbock (F8c), Frankenjura
© Ricarda Miller

Speaking of Markus Bock, the Frankenjura power-house has climbed a bouldery direct start to an existing route to give The Man That Follows Hell (F9a+) which he has said is similar in style and angle to the famous Action Directe (F9a) but involves harder moves.

Commenting on Klettern.de, Markus said that succeeding on this project was "One of the happiest moments of my climbing career". Initially thwarted by the hot summer weather, Markus had to wait for cooler autumnal conditions to arrive before he could continue his efforts on the route. He finally redpointed the project on his 7th attempt of the day on the 4th of October.

This is Markus' second new route of F9a+ in the Frankenjura.

Markus Bock climbing his new F9a+, The Man that follows Hell  © Ricarda Miller
Markus Bock climbing his new F9a+, The Man that follows Hell
© Ricarda Miller

Source: Klettern.de

Thanks go to Sarah Burmester for help with this report and to Ricarda Miller for the use of her photographs.


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13 Oct, 2009
Incredible effort for Sarah - first female 8c in the Frankenjura is a great landmark. And regarding Markus Bocks route, you get so used to hearing about ascents of hard sport routes that I think its easy to forget just how hard these climbs are but this stood out for me: "He finally redpointed the project on his 7th attempt of the day"... I'm sure normally accepted tactics are that the returns diminish after the third redpoint attempt. Just shows the amount of effort and dedication involved. Good account and history of the route on the moon blog: http://www.moonclimbing.com/Markus-Bock-climbs-new-9a+-n-904.html
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