Charlotte Durif: F8c+, F8c+, F8b+ And More

by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Nov/2009
This news story has been read 7,347 times

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+Charlotte Durif making the first ascent of Pull Over, F8c+, 206 kb
Charlotte Durif making the first ascent of Pull Over, F8c+
UKC News, Nov 2009
© Thomas Durif / chadurif.fr

photo
Charlotte Durif
UKC News, Nov 2009
© Philippe Maurel / Nice-climb.com
19-year-old French climber Charlotte Durif has hit an extra ordinary run of form.

The successful competition climber and former junior world champion has in the last couple of weeks climbed the first ascent of The Wall (F8c+) at Combe la Vielle, and also grabbed the first ascent of Pull Over (F8c+) at Grotte de Galetas in the Verdon area of France.

The grade of The Wall was confirmed just a few days later when it had its first repeat at the hands of the young Frenchman Geoffray De Flaugergues.

Just a couple of days after climbing Pull Over, Charlotte Durif turned her attention to the Verdon Gorge proper; using a 100m rope to onsight the first four pitches of Ultime Démence in a single push, not stopping at the belays.

The individual pitch grades are F8a+, F8a, F8a+, F7c+. Charlotte commented that she thought her mega link was F8b+ in difficulty.

Ultime Démence was first bolted back in 2000 by Laurent Triay and is five pitches long in total. Durif only missed the final pitch, which is also the easiest pitch on the route at F7c. Perhaps if she had a longer rope then the whole route could have been climbed in a single pitch?

Obviously not tired from her effort, Charlotte then went on to link the first two pitches of Ramirole: F8a+/b and F8a the following day!


Charlotte Durif is sponsored by various companies including Beal , Petzl and prAna

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