Lino Lacedelli has died aged 83, on November 20. He and Achille Compagnoni were the first team to summit K2 (8,611m) back in 1954.
Lacedelli's ascent was accompanied by controversy as he and fellow climber Walter Bonatti argued and accused each other of underhand tricks. Bonatti didn't make the summit, leaving Lacedelli and his climbing partner Achille Compagnoni as the final summit team.
Lacedelli's full account of the climb is detailed in his book K2 – The Price of Conquest, published in 2004.
Lacedelli also made many hard first ascents and repeats in the Dolomites and the European Alps including the south-west face of Cima Scotoni in the Dolomites and the second ascent of the east face of the Grand Capucin in the Mont Blanc range.