Charlie Woodburn climbing in Pembroke
UKC News, Dec 2009
© Rockfax / Mike Robertson Charlie Woodburn has made a quick repeat of Daddy Cool, the E8 slab route at Carreg y Barcud, Pembroke.
Woodburn is no stranger to hard Pembroke test-pieces and made the first ascent of the very tough E8 San Simeon at Hollow Caves Bay back in July 2004.
Daddy Cool was first climbed in 2005 by Dave Pickford and tackles the blank wall to the right of the super-classic E5 Mean Feat at Carreg y Barcud, one of the finest cliffs on the North Pembroke coast.
Commenting after his ascent, Charlie said:
"I had actually gone to do a new line, but broke a hold off, and it ended up being a bit eliminate and rubbish, so I decided to give Daddy a shot.
Charlie's ascent is as far as we know the second ascent of the route. George Ullrich had a superb day at the crag back in July (see his PlanetFear Blog) where he onsighted several E5's and the E6 Sledgehammer, then attempted Daddy Cool, falling after the bold lower section twice when he went left instead of right due to not having a route description.
From George's blog:
"After inspecting the line and top roping it a couple of time's, I went for the lead. The first section, which is the bold part of the route, went well. Although I did have to hold my breath as I did the final rock over move on my thumb to the peg. Then I stepped left to good gear and a stopper 6c move, which threw me off. Bummer..."
Woodburn found the climbing to be okay but thought the route to be very serious:
"It's a slab with the 1st gear (a peg) at about 45ft and the landing is pretty shocking. The climbing is not very hard though. The crux is the last move before the peg - a scary lunge off a poor right foot."
A Rockfax topo of the crag is pictured below showing the line of the route.
Carreg y Barcud from the Pembroke guide by Rockfax
UKC News, Dec 2009
© Rockfax / Mike Robertson