VIDEO: Earl Crag Action - Buys and Whittaker

Jordan Buys takes a ground fall from what became 'The Baron of Boing' UKC News, Mar 2010 © Jordan Buys Collection

Jordan Buys attempting 'The Baron of Boing', Earl Crag, Yorkshire
UKC News, Mar 2010
© Jordan Buys Collection

French Duke is a bold and technical gritstone arete, first climbed back in 2008 by Burnley based climber Jordan Buys. You can see this ascent in the video below.

Pete, climbing with first ascensionist Jordan Buys, repeated the route on Friday 11th March after a few days of top rope inspection.

Jordan recounted Pete's ascent:

"He set off confidently and was pretty quickly into the crux sequence. This went very smoothly but then Pete suddenly started to flounder - he was desperately slapping and grasping at the slopers above, with a strangled cry of "watch me". We could hardly bear to look as he clawed his way up the final few moves, facing a certain ground fall from 10 metres. But then he was on the top, breathing heavily and shaking like a leaf! Well, it was the hardest belaying I've ever done, I was prepared to sprint down the hill like Usain Bolt in my wellies....."

Meanwhile Jordan was trying a new route to the left of Mindbomb (E7 6c) on the same buttress as French Duke:

"I had a go at the new line to the left. This route climbs to the Mindbomb ledge and then attacks the problematic left arete/wall via a distant edge on the left wall. I had previously attempted a lead one week earlier but aborted after the gear unexpectedly ripped and I decked out onto my back (Ed's Note: See Photo!). I kind of bounced but it did hurt. This time I returned armed with more pads, spotters and some superlight nuts, backing up the zero cams. This time the gear managed to hold, and it was a good job too as I fell off the crux repeatedly!"

After a few more falls and a scraped shin, Jordan managed to route and has named it The Baron of Boing. Pete Whittaker stepped in for a very swift repeat after working the moves on abseil.

Commenting on the grade of his new line, Jordan said:

"It is a serious proposition without lots of mats and the gear is too low for comfort so... maybe E7 6c for the climber of average stature, but possibly E6 6b for the very tall. It was great fun and there were some lovely rainbows."

RELATED VIDEO: Jordan Buys making the first ascent of French Duke in 2008

Jordan Buys is sponsored by Boreal , Moon and Wild Country

Pete Whittaker is sponsored by Patagonia , Five Ten , The Edge Climbing Wall, Naked Ape and Wild Country

Forums ( Read More... | 58 comments, 13 Apr 2010 ) What does it matter if pads were used? The important thing is that Jordan and Pete have been open and honest about what was done. The grade is no doubt predicted for the trad style, and let's face it there's been no... bentley's biceps - 20 Mar 2010 Surely this , as with all trad climbing is a reinforcement of the bourgeouis hegemony of the sport - if you can afford enough pads, gritstone routes (the lingua franca of uk 'trad') become more easier to acheive at a... whispering nic - 19 Mar 2010 You are another one who either didnt read my posts or are just putting words into my mouth. I asked a question. I didnt comment on the grade or the mental strain or try to take away the achievement so in future read... pigeonjim - 19 Mar 2010 i suggest You try those bolted into submision french routes in say Ceuse, Dame Blanche for example and see what you think when You are going for the last bolt. You can have plenty of adventure going to a night club in... kroolis77 - 19 Mar 2010 of course a comment about climbing hard routes is more intresting/valid coming from someone climbing those hard routes, that is very obvious for me. I do not climb trad at all so i do not comment on it except when... kroolis77 - 19 Mar 2010 Indeed Indeed again. Interesting how few significant accidents there's been on the hard grit first ascent / repeat side. Reports like this do make it sound incredibly marginal but I not aware of many high profile... Ian Patterson - 19 Mar 2010

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