Birkett Frees 11 Pitch South African Mega-Route

by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Mar/2010
This news story has been read 8,716 times

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+Dave Birkett chalking up on the crux roof of Remote Control, 101 kb
Dave Birkett chalking up on the crux roof of Remote Control
UKC News, Mar 2010
© Adam Roff

+Dave Birkett cruising pitch 5 of Remote Control (Grade 25), 97 kb
Dave Birkett cruising pitch 5 of Remote Control (Grade 25)
UKC News, Mar 2010
© Adam Roff
Lakeland legend Dave Birkett has once again headed to South Africa and this time, partnered by Mary Jenner and Adam Roff, he has freed Remote Control up the Ben Heatlie amphitheatre in the Hex River Valley, around 140km from Cape Town.

Adam Roff who made the first ascent of the route, mainly on aid and some twenty years ago, has written a report on Climb.co.za, and described the crux pitch:

"After cleaning some plants out of the rail and trying the moves through the roof, Dave returned to the hanging belay for that mandatory of British trad rituals a roll-up cigarette. Thus emboldened he sent the pitch. Although only about 15m long it is crazy hard some no-footholds railing followed by a massive reach through the roof. Then the crux move to get to a rattly ledge. He reckoned 28. We aided..."

The route is 11 pitches long, is protected by trad gear and has difficulties of up to South African 28 (French 7c).

Adam Roff ended his report with the following line:

"Remote Control will not be the best route you ever climb, nor have the best rock, but will be one of your most memorable outings. And remember, if there's no possibility of failure or an epic, it isn't an adventure!"

photo
Friendly farmers!
UKC News, Mar 2010
© Adam Roff

+Remote Control Topo - Ben  Heatlie amphitheatre, Hex River Valley, 106 kb
Remote Control Topo - Ben Heatlie amphitheatre, Hex River Valley
UKC News, Mar 2010
© Adam Roff
+Mary Jenner following pitch 4 - grade 23, 85 kb
Mary Jenner following pitch 4 - grade 23
UKC News, Mar 2010
© Adam Roff

Dave Birkett is sponsored by: Scarpa , Outdoor Research , Grivel and Wild Country


Forums ( Read More... | 13 comments, 26 Mar 2010 )
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