Paul Robinson Climbs a Possible V16 - Font 8C+by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Apr/2010
This news story has been read 8,633 times
American super-boulderer Paul Robinson has succeeded on the Rastaman Vibration Sit Start on the Grandpa Peabody Boulder in the Buttermilks, Bishop, Califonia.
He has named the problem Lucid Dreaming and proposed a grade of V16, making this one of the very hardest boulder problems in the world.
In the report on the Bishop Bouldering Blog the problem is described:
"This extreme problem with a crux move to gain and dyno from a small left-hand pinch at standing height, was disregarded as near-impossible by many top climbers--with only a handful ever sticking the dyno. The line, in full is thought to be at least v15 and Paul has suggested v16. Not only is the start extremely physical, but the topout up the slab left of Evilution adds a good deal of highballing spice to top it off! Certainly one of the most amazing ascents at the Buttermilks ever, and one of the world's hardest problems."
Paul has written his own blog post on the subject of the V16 grade and why he feels this climb should be graded that hard.
From Paul's Blog:
"This 2 move sequence truly was an epic for me. I fell on each of the move hundreds of times and the ability to link the two moves came after 12 days of patiently waiting for everything to be perfect. I know that these two moves joined together are the two hardest single moves in a row that i have ever done...
...I know that this climb may get downgraded by the second ascendant, however in my mind I know that this is BY FAR the 2 hardest move i have ever completed and in a way really marks a break through for me."
The fifth round of the IFSC Lead World Cup took place in Arco, Italy this weekend. In this historic climbing town, the event drew... Read more
Alex Megos has made the fourth ascent of Chris Sharma's Dreamcatcher, 9a, at Squamish, Canada. Quite unexpectedly, he made the... Read more
Chris Doyle has linked Director's Cut 8B into Almost Familiar 7c to create Final Cut 8c at Parisella's Cave, North... Read more
As reported in a previous UKC article on GCSE Climbing, September marks the start of a revamped GCSE syllabus in a number of... Read more
The seventh and final round of the IFSC Boulder World Cup took place in Munich, Germany this weekend. Miho Nonaka and Tomoa... Read more