I asked Gabri Moroni to comment on his ascent of Action directe. I missed him when he was online, but he was kind enough to send me a message: "I first tried AD once in October 2005...just one try to understand how difficult it was. I wasnt able to do any of the moves...
A couple of years after, I came back to Frankenjura in August to try it more seriously but after 2 days I got a small injury at the middle finger. I recovered a bit and I started training to get my fingers stronger. I came back in October for 3 straight weekends and I was very close. A couple of times I fell at the second to last move due to stupid mistakes or bad luck. I felt like I could do it that time but it seems it was not the right time.
Last year I couldn't try it a lot due to other things to do and no time to spend in Germany. I stayed one weekend again but I had very bad conditions...
This year I felt better prepared and stronger and after one day of rework the moves, I did it second try of the second day. when I got to the top sequence I was climbing like in trance... amazing feeling..."
Thanks Gabri, and, again, congratulations!