by Björn Pohl - UKC Feb/2010 This news story has been read 677 times
I said I'd try to get in touch with Alex for a comment, and here it is. I asked him about the new sequence that he used, and about the experience. "If you've seen the footage of Kevin doing it, he describes a 4 move crux sequence down [relatively] low. He rolls under to a crimp, hits something bad, then throws to a crimp. From the hold that he rolls under from, I match it by means of a big open handed pinch, and then throw directly to the finishing crimp [which is good]. So I avoid the hard roll under to the small crimp. It's very straightforward and I assume much easier. When I looked at Kevin's way I just assumed I couldn't do it and looked for other holds.
And then we did slightly different things the rest of the way too, but that was just based on our sizes and preferences.
It's an awesome route. Not super hard, or else I wouldn't be able to do it, but beautiful. It was a pleasure." Thanks Alex!