is currently in orbit (kind of) around the world (well Asia, really) and has reached Yangshou in China, a place heaps of 4 sided pinnacles like to call home. In short, he dispatched everything in sight, including Lightning
, 8b+, Thunder
, 8b+, the imaginatively named China climb
, 8c, and last but by no means least American/French gangster
, 8c+, where he chose to use the Sharma sequence, thereby avoiding the enhanced* three finger pocket. A lot more on his blog
*When Mike Fuselier was working the route, the hold was a nasty mono with a sharp "spike" inside. After having lost a lot of blood on it, Mike used the drill to remove the spike, so calling it an artificial hold would not be correct.
Source: The NarcPhoto: A pinnacle at Yangshou that many hard routes like to call home, by Jonathan Siegrist.
( Read more | 4 comments, 01 Mar 2010
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